HowToRepairGuide.com: Ecu repairing for geo tracker?

I think My ECU is bad ?
DAG NAB IT ! 89-98

1989-98 Suzuki Sidekick's and Geo Tracker's ECU Engine Controller Units and bad Capacitor's on all 89-95!
The ECU provides Injection, spark (no spark pre 91's) and many other output devices, that are driven by the ECU, (ISC, relays, VSV's and +5vdcREF supply)
The below solves all the common problems. (I hope).
I do not offer services on Ebay, (the rumors are wrong, and never have..)

What should I do? You are here because.?
A Mini Index:

A FAST ECU test, take the test , it's easy !
How to remove ECU.
ECU Part numbers , ALL.
Repairs or exchanges.
Example , replacing just the MAIN CAP.
Where to buy these CAPS , Digikey or Mouser & MCM.
Blank
How to find bad power to ECU.
Don't be fooled.
FAQ
The relays, or VSV, ISC all clicking madly
Things the make ECU look bad, but ECU is not bad.
The DIY way to test transistors.
Parts Substitutions (IC's , SIP'S, DIP'S , SMD, Hybrids and Transistors)

Many come here for ECU's with madly clicking Fuel pump relay and VSV valves. (over and over fast clicks, not 1 time)

Never condemn any ECU (check the +5vdc REF output pin first !, if 0 vdc , the ECU is bad) until you make sure inputs and outputs are good.
Never replace any ECU when the target vehicle has shorted Actuators. (outputs of ECU shorted)
This page calls all large Electrolytic capacitors (can shapes) just CAP's for short.
This page covers CAP replacement and all driver failures and the +5vdc internal reference supply. ( the lions share of failures)
Or the ECU keeps blowing the ECU fuses (there are up to 3 fuses, on all early Kicks) "FI or IG coil and DOME"
96 and newer Kicks never have bad CAP's , but can have bad +5vdc REF or a bad drivers (any).
Most (non Cap) failures of ECU are from shorted outputs devices (bad) or untrained service persons hotwiring the ECU or relays.

Use this page to correct acid damage to the traces.

How to replace my Caps video?

There are at least, 6 ways to correct a bad ECU.
DIY , FRIEND DIY, LOCAL TV SHOP, DAVID BELOW, NOT ME (grin), EBAY VENDORS GALORE , or OEM at $1400 each.
Read on for details:
The cost can be 33 cents, DIY, or $75 for David, or $200 with pre-ship and your core sent later EBAY. (keep in mind guarantee's, are not free)
If you can do a simple solder job, many repairs are easy. Any TV or electronics repair shop , worth salt can do this, tell them not to put them in backwards.!
Most failed 89-95 ECU's can be fixed for $3 and a Walmart soldering iron (grounded tip ) and a cheap RadioShack solder sucker. And WireWICK.

Nutshell List: (Legacy 89-98 KICKS only!)
Yes, it is true these early ECU's do like to go bad, on the early USA/Canada SIDEKICKS or TRACKERS. 89-95. (for just 1 part type, by 1 company)
Newer 96+ECU's are much better (in fact no CAP fails at all) and so are the foreign ones, that are in the aluminum heavy cases, or like in Australia!
All 96 and newer ECU are extremely robust and never go out. (so far).

All 95s and older (N.American) need the Capacitors changed out 1 time. See details below for locations and sources of parts.
The below is an ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITOR (called CAP from now on) the other technology caps do not fail, (mylar, ceramic, tantalum, etc) Just the CAN type.

The green slim of boric acid based Electrolyte leaking out the bottom (classic!). See Mr. Ruiz mess.
Here is the 1989 ECU see caps? replace both CAP.'s on the left side.

You are here, because you have evidence that your ECU is acting weird, no CEL at key on, no code12 when commanded (diag jumper), no idle signals to IAC.
CEL lamp on full time (SES not ON) and will never go out, running. (and DTC codes will not flash out) When the happens ECU is in BACKUP mode.
This page is USA vehicle centric. There are 97 markets world wide and hundreds of ECU designs used by Suzuki and GM.
This ECU is OBD1 technology the one that likes to fail.
Your OBD2 (96 + in USA) ECU is most likely in perfect shape. I do have 96 OBD2 repair data ( new)
Let me list the classic fail symptoms in a list.

The CEL will not come on ever, even though the lamp is good.
The CEL stays on all the time, key on running and the Diagnostic Jumper is dead. NO FLASH codes. (first remove the SES NAG switch on all FED48 cars)!
The Diagnostic jumper is dead for any reason. (other that the SES nag switch reason)
The Diagnostic codes start to come out and halt mid stream. (this is the ECU rebooting mid stride)
Idle controls are dead , and ISC is good and TPS idle switch is good. (a symptom of ECU stuck in Limphome or worse BACKUP)
Engine runs RICH and ignition advance are RPM are grossly limited, (again ECU is stuck in Limphome or backup and all EFI sensors and Engine are good)
NO DTC code 12 when commanded via Diagnosis jumper or any other codes.
The ECU keeps blowing the"FI" fuse over and over. (the CAP above keeps shorting can do so when you hit bumps in the road)
ECU is flashing Code 53. ( other reason for code 53 is putting a CAL ECU in to a FED body! Don't)
ECU lid under side is covered in black soot.
ECU CAPs are visibly leaking acid, or are split ,cracked or bulging.
ECU CAP has exploded .

Just because the ECU is stuck in Limphome ,does not mean the ECU is bad.
BACKUP is ECU failure
Limphome is what ECU does when confused ( conflicting sensors causes that , and if true is normal)
The ECU does go to Limphome for many reasons. Those reasons must be explored.
If the ECU still has Rubycon in it (orig) then your ECU will fail , and will do so soon, if not already happening.

If the CAP above dries out,the ECU will keep rebooting itself .
This rebooting (resets self) causes , the ECU to work correctly one minute then fail the next.
(end nut shell section)

ECU Part Numbers: My PDF LIST, needs Acrobat to view it.
This list is a clone of a real list, not complete.
The ECU SUZUKI part number list , (89-98) with swap rules , what works and what don't.

All USA and Canada ECU part numbers: below: ! {new}
EPC = Electronic Parts Catalog.

This REAL EPC list covers all ECU's , 1.6L in North America

This EPC covers Suzuki 1.8L Sport ECU P/N page 1 , Page 2.

No more guessing. !

Before condemning any 89 /90 ECU , read this document and note the different idle speed rules.

I highly recommend the services of David Ruberg Technical Services (89-94 , I can't do 1995's now, says Dave!)
Davids ECU repairs:

See his posts and store on : His Store is here;

To find a rebuilt or used ECU via eBAY

Search for ECU's or repairs on EBAY. ( 20 vendors or more:
Look for "digitalman" vendor on Ebay, this is no secret, David advertises on many forums, and on Ebay.
Many folks on Suzuk-forums are happy with his work. (and not one complaint !) He can fix 99% of them, in my opinion cheaply.
Join us there and the forum, and lets talk.?
or
http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/webcat/sbyapp.asp

Keep in mind not all ECU's are repairable, but most are!
If it burned to a crisp , it may be a total loss, or if the microprocessor, is blown out , it's coffin time. (proprietary to Mitsubishi / Suzuki)
Some of the SIP (single inline package) parts are very hard to find. (example, is my 91 8v drivers for the EGR VSV valve are hard to find!)

Overview:
( #1 Failure is bad dried out Electrolytic Capacitors or leaking acid out the bottom of it, and collateral damage from these caustics leaks)
We call them Cap's for Short !
The early "black Cap's" are junk, they LOVE to leak , crack , blow up and leak acid over the Printed Circuit Board , PCB. (and eat up vital copper traces.)
When this happens, the ECU will constantly crash. (and reboot over and over, relays clicking over and over too. or will cause engine misfire.)
If you are not sure, what Cap. to replace?, then only replace just 1 , the one to pick is the biggest one near the Main Power input connector., in the corner.
This is the one that is always a perfect cylinder shape , and has plastic wrapped over metal aluminum. SEE C111 Below on 8V ECU.
It will be marked similar, as the below shown Caps. EG: 100uf @ 50v or 63v is typical. Your circuit ID's may be different. or 50uf , just read the side.
Find a replacement, that is the same value and with the lowest ESR and the highest temperature rating. See Parts section below.
Do not replace the bright colored plastic looking gum drop caps or flat disc caps. They will be fine, just replace the Black Piston shaped cylinders ones.!
Doing this one step , is the best thing you can do for your old 89-95 ECU. The 1989 ECU looks like this.
Lets replace the one CAP? Read on.
The ECU is designed to last 20 Years or more, but the CAP.s (cheaper) are NOT. They are the weakest link in the chain. There ARE better caps made for sure.!!!

(aka: ECU, ECM, PCM, Engine EFI control Unit, or fuel injection processor /controller, or power train control module (modern SAE name))
Can't wait?, then:
Click here for ECU removal instructions.

YOU ARE HERE BECAUSE: ( or these are your symptoms) All Fuses above left Knee are good and the ones on the right engine bay fender.

Check engine lamp is dead all the time, even "Key ON". THE CEL never glows.
I set the Diagnostic jumper and I do not get code 12 ! code 12 means, ECU is alive and there are no STORED CODES.
One or more injectors is not firing. THE NOID TEST FAILED ! , this is an Injector test lamp.
The fuel pump relay will not energize for 3 seconds at first key on , and the relay is good. (91+ swap it with Main relay , next to it)
I have no spark, but the CMP signal is good and . Your Coil and Igniter are good. I have no ECU spark signal !
Car runs badly all the time and have checked everything else and tested all my sensors. See here for tests:
Check all sensors first.
The Freeze timing jumper does not work at all, while trying to set the ignition timing. ( Hot engine, A/C off , all Elect. loads , off for timing freeze to work ).
The IAC/ISC will not regulate the engine RPM at idle , hot. ( you discover 0 volts or a constant 12vdc on the IAC connections, running) note 1:
The ECU is commanding the EGR valve open all the time ( EGR VSV is always passing vacuum to EGR main valve) Shorted EGR driver transistor.
You lost the 5vdc Refr. voltage out of the ECU, causing the loss of many sensors. (make sure ECU fails this pin voltage , by disconnecting this load.
Any other solenoid or sensor dead can be a bad ECU, after proving the sensor or actuator is good.

note 1: the ECU has been seen to stop operating the ISC ,When in Limphome mode. "gross sensor errors detected by ECU, even with CEL OFF !"
If a sensor or 2 drift way off calibration but not enough to set a DTC the ECU may drop to Limphome.
Code 51 can do this too. EGR malfunction.

You are not here , to fix code 51, or code anything else unless you find a bad VSV driver, or the like, go back to here.
Most times the Limp home mode is not caused by the ECU. ( can be caused by two OUT of CALIBRATION SENSORS)
ECU will be running rich and retard ignition in Limphome. (aka: failsafe and back up.) Check all sensors before condemning any ECU, on any car.

Check for 12v Power at the ECU, you will need your schematic and it is different for each car; Check carefully.
Check CMP output with an LED tester. (CAS needs a pullup resistor to test it)
Next check the grounds at the ECU with the same schematic. Less than 0.5v at the ECU GROUND to the minus terminal of the battery.

See all my "make run" schematics are here, 89-95 +

See my fast sensor test page. (focused !)

The ECU can fail in at least 4 basic and common, ways: ( in the proper order)

The electrolytic Capacitors dry out ,leak and fail , causing the Brain to go crazy. (Noise at the Microprocessor, kills it) This leaking eats up the TRACES!
The injector transistors burn up , usually because someone hot wires the Injector (TBI), or by natural causes. Injectors are 1.2 ohms and are Pulse Width Modulated to keep them cool. The ECU will be destroyed or the Injectors by this practice. The Injector wires can NOT be GROUNDED out.
The Printed Circuit Board (PCB) gets cracks on the pads (due to shaking of car) and need to be re-soldered.
The PCB traces burn up due to a shorting out of some component on the board.

A23

It goes without saying , that anything can happen on such a complex board, but the above items, are very common.

Here is the ECU out of my 91 Tracker, not too fancy looking. ( Rumor: if yours is a 89-90 gold case , Some vendors don't like fixing pre 91 ECU's).
Typical of all 91's to 95 , and 8 valves ONLY.

Drawing #1 (8v typical)

Located behind Left FRONT Radio speaker. remove speaker and look. (all kicks, 89-95)

See end for removal.

The next picture is of the guts, the main circuit board.
It is just a simple microprocessor with some RAM and some ROM.

I cured mine by replacing all the black and aluminum CAPS, repairing the grounds and by putting heat sink compound on the power transistors.
C101,103,105,111 were replaced with Premium 105 DEGREE CENTIGRADE caps, made in Japan , not China !

I marked the transistors,below, that drive the TBI injector, so you can find them and replace them.

You can try to repair the unit or buy (trade) ECU's on EBAY, Search "SideKick ECU" bingo. $70 exchanged.< a great GUY!

You can buy a new one from Suzuki for $1400 ( will that be VISA or Mastercard ? No way Jose' ). Never pay more than $200 !

See my new parts list for the critical components shown, below:
We have done this 100's of times on the forums, now, and 99% success rate. Even DIY works most times.

This information below , is available, no where else. Enjoy: !
8 valve engines only this block:
USA/Canada typical: 91-95 ( but 89/90 are similar)

Click HERE, to see my INJECTOR Schematics and Transistor function ID page , for the 8-Valve.

See here for transistor testing.

Parts Substitutions.

The PinOuts for those 2 Green and white connectors are:

Page-1

Page-2

Page-3

Page-4

The high power feeds are on the Green and lower power sensors on the white, note gold pins on white conn.
I have all output transistors Identified.
Input usually do not blow out, just outputs.
Typical of all 91's to 95 , and 8 valves ONLY.
Drawing 2:

C111 is the main failure item, about a 100% failure rate after 10years. Costs 33 cents to replace it.

Data sheet for above Injector driver for both 8v and 16v ECU.

Where to get parts?:
Source 1: My favorite:

Source 2: Match a Knob in NY , has both transistors for the injectors. , min. order is 2

Source 3:

How do I know my ECU is dead. ( easy as 1, 2, 3)

Any test 1 to 3 failing , will mean the ECU is dead , not well or completely crazy (noise induced).

+5vdc refr. and main 5vdc power supply details.

See photo of Hybrid module.

If the ceramic hybrid models are bad, I think it's the end of the road. ( Mitsubishi don't return calls)

TAKE THE BASIC ECU TEST:
This is only a very simple test, nothing fancy.

Test 1: (KEY ON , NO START engine, LAMP TEST)
Keyon. the Check engine lamp CEL must glow , if it dont glow 1 or more of the 3 fuses are blown to ECU.
or ECU is dead, or the CEL lamp is missing (rotten Prev.owner) or the lamp simply burned out.
Dead ECUs will not light the CEL, this is a common and very common if the MAIN CAP leaks and eats the copper traces below it.

The ECU can enter failsafe or backup mode ( a dead ECU or inputs bad to ECU) In Fail safe, the CEL can work. but in backup mode CEL, will be dead.
" Engine is stuck in Limp Home mode , "Fail Safe" it is called by Suzuki"

Assuming all the fuses are good and the MAIN relay is pulled in and full power is applied to the ECU. ( check it)

Test 2: ( Commanding up Trouble CODES Test) The DLC is the Diagnostic Logic Connector for the ECU , not TCM.
Insert the Diagnostic Jumper in to the DLC Diagnostic pins of the proper plug. (keeps moving year by year)

Key on , no start again. ( engine must not be running ! again)
Next. make sure the CEL flashes code 12. ( code 12 is normal code) if the CEL does not flash out "FLASH , Delay, FLASH,FLASH, repeat" or some other code the ECU is dead. If the CEL is solid on ,or solid off the ECU is toast. IT MUST FLASH !
The only exceptions are, if the USA federal 48 car , has an active NAG warning. (not on CALIF cars or out of USA car) If you have a NAG lamp switch , then turn it off.
The ECU must have power, for the ECU to flash 12 or any other codes.
No starts:
Test 3:
The CMP failed test, you can insert the jumper marked DIAG and crank the engine over and release the key (do not turn off ignition, just key released in hand) ,crank for
5 to 10 seconds, and release key and you may see code 41 or 42 come flashing out. this code is the reason for the no starts. Code 12 is normal.

Test 4: After staring car the CEL must go out, if not, it has stored codes, if the codes will not flash out
the ECU is bad. or the NAG mileage feature is active.

Test 5: Repeated clicking actuators , Relays, and VSV valves on front of engine? or under the dash ?

Test 6: Unplug the IAT sensor , start car for few minutes, and see if CEL lamp glows.
Then place the DLC Diagnostic jumper and see if you get code 23

Test 7: If motor dont start the ECU can be bad. see my no start for dummies to find a bad ECU this way. All the above must pass ,test 1 and 6

If any tests don't work right pull the dome fuse for 2 minutes and put it back resetting the ECU and repeat the tests.

Do not be fooled by real non ECU problems:

Before replacing the ECU, be sure your CMP is sending pulses and that the TPS is not sending the WOT signal. (a TPS with a broken ground can do that)
There is one failure mode for the TPS, that if the wiper arm breaks or makes the voltage goes above 3v to the ECU. This tells the ECU to engage UNFLOOD MODE.
UNFLOOD mode , KILLS ALL INJECTION. ( watch for this possibility! ) ( TPS signal is 1 to 4vdc range typical)
THE WOT has TWO functions. [WOT = WIDE OPEN THROTTLE normal driving ] , go fast or Unflood (starting engine) on all cars made , me thinks!
WOT is usually greater than 75% throttle, on many cars.

KEEP IN MIND , just because the car Starts, that doesn't mean the ECU is good !!! ( it's in the design, this is a built-in feature)
There are TWO modes mentioned in the FSM, failsafe and limp mode. The Limp mode it says is special circuit that barely keeps car running.

The FSM explains all these facts.

Tricks:
On the 16v engine, one can disconnect the TPS or the MAF/MAP and start and run, I'm told , but not both.
You can use a Automatic tranny ECU in the Manual 5sp car but NOT the reverse or the Lockup torque converter will fail. [ECU swaps]
Note, I am running a AT ECU , in may MT Tracker. It runs fair but not perfect. MPG is low by 3-4 MPG. So I corrected this issue. with correct ECU PN.

Many times , there is Spark and no Injection signals ( NOID LAMP FAILURE), and it is a fact the ECU's from 1990 to 1994 are dying like flies.

Look for leaks of fluid from the Capacitors and the DAMAGE this can cause to PCB traces. [ pop the lid and look !]

Please keep this in mind, if the ECU has weak or bad Capacitors ,the ECU will have huge amounts of NOISE INSIDE (electrical) , this noise will make your computer behave in a totally unpredictable manor, it could run good one minute and be nuts the other, over and over , total chaos.
Some times the Fuel Pump relay clicks like mad and one or both VSV valves mounting on top of engine clicking away.
Sometimes the Fuel Pump overloads the ECU power buss, so unplug the Fuel Pump relay and see if the clicking stops. Fuel pump draws 4 amps. not 14.

The caps are always in Aluminum cans , wrapped in colored plastic and the top metal exposed. See them, and REPLACE THEM ALL. A $5 fix !
If the tops of the CAPS have an embossed cross on them , they have been changed once. (these are blow out weak points, added in modern times).

Click here for a list of most USA ECU partnumbers (89-98).

Bad power to ECU:
I keep replacing my ECU and it still does not act right. ECU keeps resetting or wont show code 12 ,etc.
First:
All grounds cables to the engine and body to battery and body to engine must be good, clean them and grease them with silicon grease.
The below tests should be done with the negative voltmeter lead connected to the MINUS - terminal of the battery.
In the first 3 pages , ground is shown as blank, ignore that and measure it with key on, the voltage should be below 0.5v or ideally way less.
Pins B2, B3 and B10 (A4 for California car only) must be at a perfect ground potential at all times.
A24 is the ground sense pin and must be very low in voltage ( I do not have a spec for it). it provides ground to most of the sensors.

8V ECU voltage and ohmic test points: page1, page2, page3, page4. ALL-4-Pages.

The body/battery minus ground strap behind the battery is very critical. It must be good, so starting current does not pass through the ECU. VITAL !
Make sure the battery main large black (biggest) minus cable goes to the starter and is clean and tight on both ends,
if not, you risk sending starter currents through the ECU. This would be very bad.

16 valve engines only on this block 92-95 Shown, USA/Canada typical:

ALL 16V Critical ECU pin voltages and FSM full pin lists and voltages are here.:

See here for transistor testing.

Parts Substitutions.

My 16V ECU photo below, shows all major ECU actuator driver transistors too !
Below is Typical of all 92's to 95 , and 16 valves typ. of USA and Canada, other countries,may be different.
Drawing 3: ( see heat sink, those 5 transistors, are Injector Drivers Q101-108)

Secrets!
Usually, only outputs blow up, all inputs are protected with resistors and filter cap.'s..
The transistors above with Qnnn ID. have numbers/letters, on the side. Q103 has C2562 on the side. so...
For example the p/n becomces, 2SC2562 at Q103 ( just add 2S and the full JAPAN p/n is created).

Lets say,the fuel pump relay is dead and Q113 is dead (cause) the transistor is marked. CE1F3P (the whole row are same pn) Fast data for same
IC-15 (not a transistor but looks like it) is a 10 vdc regulator.TA78DS-10BP That supplies power to IC17
Q105 is missing on mine, due to its being a M/T ECU.

IC-14 ( dual driver SIP m6269L pin1&7) connects to ECU pin B23 Heater 02 driver. All parts starting with "M" for Mitsubishi are impossible to find.
The Main Relay Driver on pin A10 is connected to Diode D102 and to B1 Ground. (not truly driver, just a single diode see it here)
The injector drivers are 2SD1415; (before ordering this part , be sure its in a 100% plastic package, no metal on backside or mount tab.)
Q100 is a 2SB1018 PNP Transistor. it too, must be in plastic 100%
Q103 the 2SC2562 ISC driver. NPN power transistor. Easy to buy it is.

The CE1F3p
is here
Parts Substitutions.

2 new schematics :
My Injector schematic.

+5vdc refr. and main 5vdc power supply details.

If the 2 white ceramic hybrid modules (eg IC-7) are bad?, I think it's the end of the road. ( Mitsubishi don't return calls)
IC 1 the processor is programmed and is not sold anywhere in that form. IC2 is a custom Mitsu, ASIC, and is not an over the counter part.

1996 ECU exposed. (the 1997 ECU now has the TCM moved into the ECU, so is different)

My 96 ECU DATA . (my driver map shows parts and functions)

I dont have information on the 97 /98 PCM with internal TCM.

Removal of ECU: 89-95 .
I can remove ECU in 10mins now. (2nd time, is way easier) Use a number #3 Phillips large screw driver, or you will fail.

ECU: removal: (left hand drive cars). { ALL SUZUKI connectors are locked, Never ever force them, depress the lock lever and wiggle gently)

Disconnect battery neg. terminal, black color. so you don't deploy air bags (many cars have them ,maybe not yours) and you dont blow up ECU, if pins cross because that is a real risk. Air bags can be lethal. Most USA cars this year range have no Air Bags, but other markets might. I do not know .
Remove speaker left front, cover with 4 screws.
Remove speaker and unplug it.
Look inside speaker hole, see ECU?
Some can remove the connectors on ECU now, but the Conn. locks are on top. if not skip this step until later.
From the bottom remove at least 2 screws, on ECU, that have there heads pointing down. (can be real hard to remove, need large #3 or 4 Phillips driver)
The screws can be tight and you may need to remove the whole mount, I replaced the 2 bottom centerline screws with hex head. Problem solved.
Slide ECU to the front of car (firewall). (loosen wire ties or remove them as necessary.
Next ! , depress the connectors locks and wiggle out the connectors on the rear of ECU, one white and 1 green on 8v. DO NOT FORCE THEM.
ECU is now free. remove it.
To put back ECU, reverse the above.

1991 shown. (89-95 similar) The Pink wires are Fuel Pump Relay , on Green socket, Main is to the left.

WHERE TO GET NEW CAPACITORS ? << click me.!

Where to get parts?: Digikey, Mouser, or MCM are the top 3 sources here in the USA. Mouser ships lightening fast.
Source 1: My favorite MCM electronics

Alt Source 2: Match a Knob in NY , has both transistors for the injectors. , min. order is 2

Source 3:

This kit , above, will work for both 8v and 16v ECU's.
Some CAPS are tagged, 63-64vdc or the like, and the same P/N ECU , will have 50vdc, so use either. voltage.
If you have time, look at all the cap's at Mousers and try to find the Lowest "ESR: type and Higher Temperature rating.
ESR is equiv. series resistance , and get 105 degree rated caps,
Size, Capacitance, Voltage , Temperature rating and ESR rating. ( there is no factory ESR spec. ).
Just make sure the Capacitance is equal or greater and the working voltage rating too and still make it fit the case.
I have never seen an ECU malfunction with the above new quality replacement Cap.'s.

Be sure to handle your ECU carefully and to observer Electro-static discharge procedures. (ESD )

You can work on the ECU using a damp cotton towel or a sheet of aluminum foil, keep your body touching the foil, or towel with your elbow, then lay the ECU down on the foil and work on it. This will keep you from generating static, as you work in the ECU.
Never work on any Plastic or Varnished wood, or Formica tops. Bare wood is much better.
Wear cotton jeans and a cotton shirt, and natural leather shoes. Avoid all plastic near electronics and you clothing.
If your shop is below freezing or is air conditioned and the humidity is below 20%, you shop may be bad for electronics work.
If it is very dry in your work area, this is a heads up on ESD.

The soldering iron needs to be one, with a 3 wire AC line and the tip must be grounded.
In a pinch: ( desperate?)
You can just warp some spare wire to the upper shank of the soldering iron and then the other end to the foil or damp towel.
This prevents the ESD events from damaging fragile circuits of the ECU.
These are crude methods here, no long trip to a far away electronics store for ESD rated tools. ( it is possible to work safely with out spending $$$)

I have a professional ESD work station at work (retired now) and home, but it set me back $200. (even my tools are ESD rated).
In a pinch , radio shack has Cap's that will work just fine. Put them in and then buy nicer ones later. No hurry.
Not all Radio Shack's sell electronic parts, and some need to special order them.
They are not really an electronics store, closer to a toy store, now. In my opinion.
Or closer to Cell Phone central. The guy behind the counter many have never seen, an actual radio, nor real radio shack.

NOW , how to replace the main CAP: eg;: C111 (or equiv) ?
Any TV electronics shop can do this. (Arcade game repair shop, home electronics repair shop, ham radio nut, and lots of GEEKSetc.)

Pull ECU out , see above instructions.
Lid off , Remove the 4 screws on sides of ECU.
Look for smoke stains under lid ! Not good. Carbon smoke on lid ,underside ?
Look at each CAP and for Acid damage below it ! (electrolyte leakage, it is called)
Remove the 4 corner PCB screws. Printed circuit board.
See heat sink? On drawing 2 , remove 2 screws at each end. The PCB is now free.
Lift out PCB , keep left hand on metal case , never put PCB on plastic of any kind (Use anti static procedures)
Using solder wick , wick the solder from the bottom of C111, or use a solder sucker. ($5 tools) A solder sucker tool, excels at this.
Use a grounded soldering pencil (30watts or so) (or a 100w soldering station set to 700F) Both have a 3 prong power plug.
Remove solder, then wiggle the pins until they are free of the PCB pads, then pull it ,the CAP noting the alignment of the MINUS STRIP on the cap.
Clean up any acid under the Cap with backing soda and water mix.
Repair any trace damage at this local area, look carefully for damage ! to the traces !
Put in new CAP in same spot and get the Minus Strip back to the correct orientation (polarity)
Solder it back with 60/40 Tin lead solder , no acid core , only rosin core. "electronics only solder"
Clean flux with alcohol , and then Reverse all above removal instructions.

In a pinch, lay PCB on Kitchen Aluminum foil. and keep it there. A DIY , anti static work station.

Sounds hard ,but it is 1 hour job.
I can remove ECU in 10mins now. (2nd time, is way easier) Use a number 3 Phillips large screw driver, or you will fail.

Only the aluminum CAN shaped CAPS are subject to leaking, (max 4 on each board, in USA).

End:

A common Question: FAQ
I get asked this over and over , so her are my answers:
Do the other non electrolytic caps go bad?, NO. Do not touch the ceramic disc, or gum drop Tantalum Caps.
If the acid eats up a ceramic cap "SMD" below the main Electro cap , then get a new cap with 0.1Uf 50v and replace it. even a ceramic cap with leads will work.
There are no internal schematics for ECU's ,nor have I seen any or heard of any, but I have one for the Injectors as listed above., 8v.
except my schematics here. I have Driver schematics only. Because drivers blow out.
So, if any output goes bad, you now have the transistor location and PN. So just replace the transistor by function that is failing.
I have not done this, for all Sidekicks just the old 8v and the old 16v ECU's. 56B and 58B series. (no 57Bs or 60s, sorry )

If you look at the 16v photo above , all output transistors are identified. I did this for you. It exists no where else.
Someone helped me with the 16v ECU on line, in fact ,lots of things here, are from the many nice people at the Suzuki Forum.

I discovered all this 8v stuff , doing a custom ECU project. So I decided to share this information.
I have car and engine electrical schematics, that are right here below:

I also made up a ECU part number list here. See my PDF Parts list for 89-98 ECU's. (PCM)

Fast facts on repairs: (do's and don't)
Q: can all ECU's be fixed?
Not all ECU's are repairable.
If the processor blows up or CAP ACID burns a huge hole through the board ,or the acid burns and the PCB carbonizes it, then she my be END OF LIFE.
An end of life ECU is just like an old rusted out car, so don't criticize any man who can NOT do what even a Deity can not do! Please !
Q: Can I use just any injector driver transistor.?
Do not use metal backed heat sink driver transistors (injectors) use the all plastic package ( special suffix pn) Do use heat sink compound as appropriate to the drivers.
Q: Can I use any type solder.?
Do not use acid core solder only rosin.
Q: Are all CAPS bad? NO!
If the CAP tops have a STAR EMBOSS mark ,they are new. ( these are; modern top blow out caps and are not old and are most likely good if not made in China)
If the caps are not black plastic covered then they may be ok.
If the caps are marked as "RUBYcon" ,then get them out now. (black plastic wrap)
IF you see acid leaking, bulging , cracking , or tiny volcano's on the caps , they are BAD. ( they can be measured easy when removed) Ask a technician. (or just swap them)
Do neutralize the acid with Arm&Hammer backing soda. Sodium Bicarb.
Do correct any acid damage to the traces near the caps, with jumper bridges of 20 gage wire .
Do practice anti static procedures at all times.
Q: Can I solder the CAP in ,just any old way? NO.
Do put the caps back in , using the same polarity as the original or as the silk screen marks clearly show. ( if acid killed the silk screen marks make your own)
Do Clean off your solder rosin with alcohol after you are done, avoid alcohol else where's as the board is conformal coated top and bottom, looks like shellac.
Q: Are all transistors the same, NO.
Do make sure your new transistors have the same Pin ID's E, B,and C. (D,S,G) check the data sheet carefully, or even use a transistor checker to be sure.
Transistor test shows [low beta {HFE} that means it has reversal , E<>C ,emitter to collector reversal ]
Transistors come in different packages, and pin locations.!
Do not use metal backed transistors for all plastic type. (yes, it can be done, but takes mica kits and lots of patience with metal backed To-220 cases)
Any questions on this , just post me. See feed back above.
Q: How do I replace this CAP? Answer : http://www.afrotechmods.com/groovy/capacitor_replacement/capacitor_replacement.htm

Q: Is there a full schematic for my ECU, Answer: NO.
Q: Why do I say some parts are Unobtainium , Answer1: they are NO LONGER MADE, or need programming.
Answer 2: sure find another old ECU and cannibalized it. or use substitutions. (ask for help)
Q: Do I fix ECU's for a business, Answer :NO not any more , Thank you, I am retired, this page is for DIY. Time to give back !

CLICKING RELAYS under dash below ECU:
See my click and FI blowing page here.

more ECU photos;

Here are responses, to such a call:

Here is the 1989 ECU see caps? replace both CAP.'s on the left side. PN: -60A32/42 MT/AT

Here is an other: Vitara Australian ECU. 57B30 . very diff. design and far better than any USA , of this era.

Things the make ECU look bad, but ECU is not bad.