1996 Toyota Camry timing belt mark and timing belt replacing procedure?

1996 Toyota Camry

Timing Belt Diagrams

Drive Belt Diagrams

Timing Belt and Sprockets REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines

1. Remove the timing belt covers as previously detailed.
2. Raise the engine just enough to remove the weight from the engine mount on the right side.
3. Remove the thru-bolt, two nuts, and right hand mounting insulator.
4. Remove the retaining bolts and remove the right hand mounting bracket (from the side the alternator was removed from).
5. Remove the timing belt and timing belt guide. If the timing belt is to be reused, draw a directional arrow on the timing belt in the direction of engine rotation (clockwise) and place matchmarks on the timing belt and crankshaft gear.
6. Remove the bolt retaining the No. 1 idler pulley and tension spring.
7. Remove the No. 2 idler pulley.
8. Remove the crankshaft timing gear , if it can not be removed by hand, use two flat bladed tools to pry it off. Make sure to position shop rags to prevent damages to the components.
9. Remove the nut retaining the oil pump pulley. To install:
   
10. Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
11. Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
12. Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly. NOTE: Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.
    
13. Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
14. Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys. NOTE: If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.
    
15. Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
16. Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
17. On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
18. Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
19. On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt. NOTE: On 2S-ELC engines, make sure that the Matchmark on the oil seal retainer and center hole of the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley are aligned.
    
20. Using the removal tool to hold the pulley stationary, install and tighten the pulley set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 2S-ELC and the 3S-FE. On the 5S-FE, tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
21. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
22. Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
    1. Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
    2. Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1⁄2 turn.
    3. Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
    4. Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
    5. Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.
23. Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s). On the 5S-FE, align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
24. Install the spark plugs.
25. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten each component to specifications.

slow jets for honda 1100 shadow

SLOW/PILOT JETS

It sounds like you have a restriction in the pilot/slow jets in your carbs. Pilot/slow jets meter the fuel flow at idle and low rpm's. The symptoms you describe are very typical of plugged or restricted pilot jets.
You are going to have to remove the carbs, take the float bowls off and unscrew the pilot/slow jets. Once you get them out, take a look at them by holding them up to a light source and looking through them. You should be able to clearly see a hole through the center. Now you will want to blow the jets out backwards, which means from the opposite end of where the screwdriver slot is towards the screwdriver slot, preferably with compressed air but contact cleaner or carb cleaner spray may be sufficient.
Once you blow them out, look at them again holding them up towards a light and see if the orifice appears to be bigger than it was previously.
While you have the float bowls off, check the bottom of the float bowls for any remaining sediment or debris and clean that out now too.
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Also see part number 32 in the image below, that's the slow/pilot jet and part number 31 is main jet:----

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Thius is image of MAIN JETS

But you require slow jet not main jet.

How TO CHANGE THE TRANS FLUID and filter on 2004 KIA OPTIMA

Park the Optima on a flat surface and raise the front end up on a pair of jack stands. Wait about 30 minutes for the engine to cool before you go underneath the vehicle. Slide underneath the engine and locate the transmission drain pan in the center of the vehicle. This is a large, metal tank surrounded by six bolts. Place a collection pan beneath the drain pan.Remove all but one of the bolts surrounding the drain pan with the 1/2 inch socket wrench. Allow 10 to 15 minutes for the majority of the fluid to drain from the pan. Hold onto the drain pan and remove the final bolt. Tilt the remaining fluid slowly into the collection pan below. Wash out the drain pan and bolts with soap and water to remove the fluid residue.Remove the three bolts attaching the transmission filter below the drain pan. Place the new filter on the transmission and attach the old bolts. Replace the drain pan and lower the car from the jack stands.Open the hood of the car and locate the yellow transmission dipstick above the drain pan. Pull it out and place a funnel into the tube. Pour in three quarts of transmission fluid. Replace the dipstick and close the hood.

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Do not over fill the trans fluid otherwise it will be complete mess to clear it up, it will cause all types of gear slipping and gear shifting problem.

manually operated sliding door will not remain open on Chrysler Town n Country

As for quick fix: open door and look at the back side of the sliding door (see attached pix). Find the latching mechanism: large rotating hook grabs vehicle post, screwdriver is pointing to small catch that acts as a ratchet to grab and hold the hook in place. (If you rotate the hook, it may latch. Operate the door handle to release.) Now - douse these parts with WD-40, rub with cloth to clean crud away. Repeat 4-5 times until parts move freely. You may need to use a small screwdriver to move parts. This will get door in working condition.

This is a common problem that can usually be remedied with some WD40 on some cases, bt if that is not helping then replace the lower latch and this will solve the problem.

Or in some cases, the cable that operates the latch had come out of the door mechanism. This stops the door latching all of the time though.

dirt gets into them causing them to malfunction.

Sounds like WD40 is cleaning out the gunk so the latch works properly until dirt gets back into it.

how to remove door lock actuator on Hyundai Santa Fe

Yes it is the actuator and it will have to be purchased through the dealer. These are tricky to change so you will need a small mirror, good flashlight a hook tool that you can make out of a coat hanger, some patience and a little extra skin for the sharp edges in the door.

The latch and actuator are attached to the window module so removing the rod from the outside latch and the electrical connector from the actuator are all that is required before removing the latch screws then the module from the door.

The latch is hed onto the module with a nylon catch assembly that you have to press the tabs in the door modul while you slide the latch/actuator off the door module.

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Lift up the door panel to release it at the top sill by the window, and move it toward the rear just enough to remove the door handle from the panel. Move it back toward you enough to remove the electrical connections. Remove the door panel and put it aside. Looking into the access hole in the door panel, look at the door latch from the inside. There are two rods that are attached to the door lock actuator. One of the rods can be seen running from the key door lock down to the actuator, and another from the actuator to the door latch. Make sure these rods are hooked up to the actuator and that the small plastic snaps that hold the rods on are in place. These are all easy to see, although a flashlight makes it easier.

• Attach the switch to the connector on the door. Using a test light, check for power at the switch. If there is no power, check the fuses. If there is power, check the other terminal at the switch for power as the switch is moved to either up or down. It should have power at one terminal continuously, and at each of the other terminals when the switch is moved.

REPLACING THE GM DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS:---------

• If there is no power when the switch is in the up or down position, the switch is bad. If there is power, the door lock actuator is getting power and is defective. It's not surprising, because they fail often. The switch must be removed. Use a common screwdriver and push the plastic locks loose, holding the rods to the door latch mechanism as a whole. There will be two rods to the door lock and two rods from the door latch to the inside of the door--the long rods. The long rods must be removed from the door latch mechanism. Disconnect the electrical connector to the door latch mechanism. Use a large Phillips screwdriver and remove the three large screws on the outside back of the door that hold the door latch to the door frame. Remove the door latch from the door access hole. Remove the screws holding the black door lock mechanism to the door latch. Replace it with a new one and install all of the components in reverse order of removal.-----------

  
  

How to by-pass pass key module on 1997 Buick Park ave

Thanks for offering a real solution to my 1997 Buick’s starting problems with your Full-Bypass module. It took less than 30 minutes to install, and has made my car reliable again!
Best Regards,
Mark

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To understand how this procedure works.Click all the links one by one and go through its procedure.

That will make you understand, how to by pass the module.---------

Its not that hard, you can do it:----

Click this link below and go through the procedure:---

http://newrockies.com/

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how to remove door lock actuator on chevrolet Equinox

You most likley have a faulty door lock actuator. Unplug the actuator and connect a test light to the connector, then push the switch to see if the test light illuminates.

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Lift up the door panel to release it at the top sill by the window, and move it toward the rear just enough to remove the door handle from the panel. Move it back toward you enough to remove the electrical connections. Remove the door panel and put it aside. Looking into the access hole in the door panel, look at the door latch from the inside. There are two rods that are attached to the door lock actuator. One of the rods can be seen running from the key door lock down to the actuator, and another from the actuator to the door latch. Make sure these rods are hooked up to the actuator and that the small plastic snaps that hold the rods on are in place. These are all easy to see, although a flashlight makes it easier.

• Attach the switch to the connector on the door. Using a test light, check for power at the switch. If there is no power, check the fuses. If there is power, check the other terminal at the switch for power as the switch is moved to either up or down. It should have power at one terminal continuously, and at each of the other terminals when the switch is moved.

Replacing the GM Door Lock Actuators:---------

• If there is no power when the switch is in the up or down position, the switch is bad. If there is power, the door lock actuator is getting power and is defective. It's not surprising, because they fail often. The switch must be removed. Use a common screwdriver and push the plastic locks loose, holding the rods to the door latch mechanism as a whole. There will be two rods to the door lock and two rods from the door latch to the inside of the door--the long rods. The long rods must be removed from the door latch mechanism. Disconnect the electrical connector to the door latch mechanism. Use a large Phillips screwdriver and remove the three large screws on the outside back of the door that hold the door latch to the door frame. Remove the door latch from the door access hole. Remove the screws holding the black door lock mechanism to the door latch. Replace it with a new one and install all of the components in reverse order of removal.

  
  

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  In this procedure you need to remove door panel.To get instructions regarding how to remove door panel, click the link below and follow the directions:---

  http://whatisbyme.blogspot.com/2011/08/how-to-remove-door-panel-on-chevy.html

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Dometic RM2852 not working on propane?

Correct Heat

The key word here is "correct". The cooling unit needs a precise, CORRECT heat to operate, not just any heat. Too high of a heat will permanently damage the cooling unit. Too low of a heat will cause the cooling unit not to function properly or not to function at all.

Troubleshooting

Usually the best way to troubleshoot the propane system is by using a manometer. A manometer is a gauge that measures gas pressure, but unfortunately most people don't have one, which means they're always working somewhat in the dark, but a lot of problems can be solved by logic and the process of elimination

All gas problems, except for leaks or a blocked chimney, show up in the burner flame. Either the burner is not putting out enough BTUs or is putting out too many BTUs for the situation. Although we've used the term BTU loosely in this section, most mortals will never be able to measure the BTUs of the flame. Just think of BTUs as "the heat output".

Inadequate or No Cooling. If the gas problem is inadequate or no cooling, and electricity is available, always test the refrigerator on electricity to eliminate the cooling unit and venting as possible problems. In other words, if the refrigerator works good on electricity, the cooling unit is good and you can concentrate on the gas problem.

Assuming the cooling unit is good and its requirements are met, the baffle is in place, and the chimney is unobstructed, poor cooling on the gas side is an incorrect flame. That simple. The most common incorrect flame is one that is too small, which is usually caused by a dirty orifice and/or burner. Remove the orifice from the burner assembly and clean it with air pressure or by soaking it in alcohol or paint thinner. DO NOT poke something like a wire through the orifice. This could easily enlarge or ruin the orifice. An enlarged orifice will put out too much heat and eventually damage the cooling unit. If there is sign of sooting or loose rust build up on the burner, blowing air pressure up the chimney and onto the burner area will clean them (protect your eyes when doing this). Don't let any loose particles blow into any open gas connections.

If, after cleaning the orifice, the problem is not solved, the orifice is still not eliminated as a possible suspect. Oil from the propane tank can accumulate around the hole of the orifice attracting dirt and making it very difficult to clean. This is a point where a manometer would come in handy. If you knew for sure that the gas pressure was correct to the orifice, you would know that the orifice is still the problem. Since you're probably working without a manometer, you'll need to make a decision. First, check out the thermostat and filter sections, then, after eliminating those two items as suspects, make a gut decision as to whether or not you want to replace the main LP gas regulator to insure proper input gas pressure or want to replace the orifice. Replace one, test the refrigerator, then replace the other if the first replacement didn't solve the problem. When working without a manometer, this is the logical way to proceed. Also, don't forget the assumptions you made at the beginning of this section and double check them.

A bad thermostat (usually one stuck in by-pass mode) will also cause no cooling.

Flame height is critical. Sounds like you need to clean the orfice.

The bottom pic is the correct flame height after I soaked the orfice with laquer thinner and blew it out with air. The top pic is when flame height is low, it causes the problem.

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You can try this troubleshooting to make it work on gas:---

Turn the thermostat knob on the front panel to a cooler temperature setting. Allow the refrigerator to cool for three to four hours. Turn the thermostat knob to the "Max" setting if the room temperature is warmer than normal or the refrigerator is filled with food.

Check the LP gas bottle if the flame on the burner has gone out. Refill or replace the LP gas bottle, if neede

Move items obstructing the ventilation of the refrigerator. The refrigerator requires adequate ventilation to cool effectively.

Remove food items. Open the freezer door and allow the freezer to defrost. If the evaporator is covered with heavy frost, it will not cool effectively.

Place a level on the floor of the recreational vehicle in front of the refrigerator. If it is not level, level the recreational vehicle so that the bubble is centered. The refrigerator must be level to operate properly.

Remove the screws securing the cover plate on the burner housing with a screwdriver. The cover plate is typically located on the back of the refrigerator outside of the recreational vehicle. Disconnect the lighter cable on the electrode near the burner and loosen the burner fixing screw that secures the burner. Unscrew the jet and clean it with alcohol. Blow out the jet orifice with a can of compressed air. Reassemble the jet and burner and reconnect the lighter cable. Replace the cover plate.

Unscrew the screws securing the cover plate and remove it. Inspect the burner for damage. If the burner is visibly damaged, disconnect the lighter cable and remove the burner fixing screw. Remove the old burner and install a new one. Tighten the burner fixing screw and reconnect the lighter cable. Replace the cover plate.

How to remove the door panel to install a new window regulator on Cadillac Deville?

You'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. You'll need to lift the door panel upwards in order to get it off the window ledge. If needed, you can pull back the weather seal (can't reuse it, but it's not that important) and you will be able to access everything inside the door

Click this link below its a video showing how to remove rear door panel:---

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rR3gQsW9_mE

how to replace right rear door panel on 2004 Cadillac Deville

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For more help

Click the link below:---

Here is Cadillac procedure for either (.pdf):

click below

STANDARD INTERIOR

WC2, WC8 INTERIOR

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Removal Procedure

1. Position the window fully downward.

1. Ensure the manual lock knob (1) is in the unlock position.
2. Insert a flat bladed tool into the top service notch in order to disengage the locking clip (2) located at the front of the manual lock knob (1).
3. Remove the manual lock knob (1).

1. Remove the inside handle bezel from the inner door panel in the following order:

1. Hold the inside handle to the open position.
2. Insert a flat bladed tool at the front lower corner of the bezel.
3. Pry outward on the bezel.
4. Remove the bezel from the inner door panel.

1. Remove the screw attaching the inside door handle to the sheet metal.

1. Use the J 36796 or J 38778 in order to release the eight retainers around the outside edges of the door trim panel.

1. Slide the door trim panel (1) upwards to release it from the following:

• • The alignment datums (4)
  • The eight retainers
  • The arm rest steel retainer clips (3)
  • The inner belt molding (2)

1. Disconnect the door trim panel electrical connector.

Installation Procedure

1. Slide the electrical connector (4) into position on the water deflector (1).
2. Remove the steel retainer clips (2) from the arm rest pull handle brackets.
3. Slide the steel clips (2) into the nylon nuts (3).

1. Install the door trim panel to the inner door in the following order:

1. Position the door trim panel (1) downward over the following:

• • The manual lock rod
  • The inner belt molding (2)

1. Engage the door trim panel simultaneously into the following:

• • The alignment datums (4)
  • The electrical connector
  • The armrest pull handle retainer clips (3)
  • The eight retainers

Caution: This screw must be properly installed. This screw is critical in order to maintain retention of the inside handle to the slider-glide mechanism. Failure to properly install this screw may allow the door to unlatch during a collision, resulting in personal injury.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

1. Install the screw attaching the inside door handle to the sheet metal. Tighten the screw to 0.5 N.m (4 lb in).
2. Install the inside handle bezel to the inner door panel in the following order:

1. Hold the inside handle to the open position.
2. Insert the rear hook on the bezel to the wood trim tab.
3. Press the forward end of the bezel inward until it is fully seated.
4. 
   

Important: Ensure the manual lock rod is in the full up/unlocked position.

1. Position the manual lock knob (1) into the bezel opening until the locking clip (2) bottoms out on the bezel.
2. Engage the locking clip (2) located at the front of the lock knob (1) to the lock rod.

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To remove the front door panel, remove the plastic surround from the inside door handle. It contains the seat switches and door lock switch. It is held in place by four pressure clips, so you should be able to pull straight out. Remove the wires to the switches. Next remove the window switches by inserting a small, flat screwdriver under the forward end by the window lockout switch. Carefully pry upward. Remove the wires if you want to make removing the panel easier.
The triangular panel on the inside of the rearview mirror will need to be carefully pulled inward but NOT REMOVED. You might be able to do this with just your hand. Remove the white/red marker/courtesy light at the back side of the door panel. A small flat screw driver at the back side should release it. Remove the wire. There are two phillips screws that need to be removed. One is in the opening where the window switch panel was, the other is behind where the red/white light was. After those two are removed, grasp the door pull handle and pull STRAIGHT UP. Don’t try to pull inward.