32oz dot 3 brake fluid
Long funnel to reach Master cylinder
some 1/4" interior diameter plastic tubing, 1-2 feet
3/8" box end wrench
empty plastic bottle
turkey baster or I used my homemade suction pump
rags
bleeding order for My vehicle is Drivers rear, Passenger Front, Passenger Rear, and Drivers Front, Per Tizzy1
this method does not touch the brake pedal at all, is slow but works and low risk, brake fluid can take paint off so be careful
step 1. drain most of the fluid from master cylinder using turkey baster or pump
refill to top, then drain again and refill to help clean master cylinder fluid, can repeat again if fluid is very dark, end with the master cylinder filled to the top and cap on, I had to add some plastic tubing to the bottom of my funnel because the location of the Master cylinder would not allow my funnel to sit and be filled with out a risk of spilling
step 2 I found it easier to remove the rear tires to access the bleeder valves, the front tires I could access by turning the wheel all the way to the side I was working on,
wipe off around rubber cover, then pull to remove, get your 3/8" box end wrench and try to loosen it 1/4 turn, Make sure you are turning it the right way, if it doesn't move try some Pb blaster and let sit a few mins, once you know you can open it, then turn it closed but not tight, attach your plastic tubbing to your valve, place a rag under the valve, then using either your finger or a pair of pliers loosen the bleeder valve 1/4 to 1/2 turn, and fluid will slowly start to drip out, you may have to open the cap of the master cylinder and put it back on or leave it off, mine worked with the cap on, but every now and then I had to pull the cap off, and keep an eye on the master cylinder so it doesn't run out of fluid
step 3, once the color changes to the new fluid, you will then turn the valve closed and pull off your tubbing, and go to the next wheel, I let my first valve bleed for about 1hr, didn't need to do it that long, but my fluid was not that dirty so it was hard to tell when it changed color, they do sell some Blue and red brake fluid, may be a better choice
total time to do all 4 wheels and rotated tires was 2hrs,
Note, after done, pump the brake pedal several times to build up pressure
refilling the Master cylinder after draining
bleed valve with rubber cover on
bleed valve with rubber cover on
rubber bleed valve cover, Don't lose it
bleed valve with rubber cover removed
plastic tubbing with rag under it in case of drips, going into a jug, or in my case my homemade suction pump that I hook up to a shop vac to suck fluid out, example the master cylinder
old fluid in from front wheels, don't have to remove the tires on the front
Locate the master cylinder mounted on the driver's side firewall.
Remove the cap of the master cylinder. Some older Caravans may have dual caps for a front and rear chamber in the master cylinder.
Place the end of the flexible pour tube of the funnel into the fill spout of the master cylinder. Be sure you have not used the funnel for any petroleum based products such as oil or antifreeze, as even the slightest amount can contaminate a brake fluid system. Use this funnel for brake fluid fills only.
Pour a little brake fluid at a time and check the full mark on the side near the top base of the master cylinder. Use a flashlight and shine it onto the side of the master cylinder to illuminate the fluid level. The dual chamber master cylinder of the older Caravans have a black housing base, so the flashlight will not work in this manner; however, they're much easier to fill without the use of a funnel and the flashlight can be used by looking into each individual chamber for proper fullness.
Do not overfill the master cylinder. Putting the right amount of brake fluid into the master cylinder of a Dodge Caravan is complicated enough, but extracting fluid from an overfilled master cylinder is not going to be easy without a syringe with a flexible hose. Master cylinders in every vehicle, including the Dodge Caravan, have a full line which should be adhered to and allow a spaced air pocket between the fill line and the master cylinder fill cap.
Replace the master cylinder cap securely when finished.
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If the brake line is cracked then also air enters the brake line.In that case brake line needs to be inspected and replaced.----
Preparation
Raise the vehicle on jack stands that will support a Dodge Caravan. Remove the wheel corresponding to the brake line you need.
Open the hood and locate the brake master cylinder at the back right of the engine compartment. It's a metal cylinder with a plastic reservoir tank on top. Trace the brake lines that run from it and to each wheel.
Look over the whole brake line. It may be divided into sections where only once piece may need replacing. Each line will also be connected to a hose near the caliper.
Note how the line is bent and coiled in multiple places. This reduces the strain on the line. Bend the replacement line in the same way.
Measure the length of the old brake line and compare it to the new. You need to cut it to the original line's length if the replacement pipe is longer. Then, flare the end so it fits the connector bolts.
Replacement
Remove the brake line by removing the connector bolts. Start at the end closest to the brake hose, then remove the end near the master cylinder. Use two line wrenches because there will be two bolts on each connector.
Support any piece of the line still on the van by tying it to the chassis with a strong wire. This is especially true of pieces connected to the brake hose. Don't let anything hang from the hose or you could damage it.
Plug the holes in the brake line on the van so you won't lose or contaminate the brake fluid. Use rubber, non-absorbent cloth or any clean material that won't absorb the fluid.
Attach the new brake line pipe. Screw the bolts on by hand and then tighten them with your wrenches. Start with the end closest to the master cylinder, then to the hose.
Bleed the brake system of air. Open the bleeder valve on the caliper, attach a vinyl tube to it and place the tube's other end in a container of brake fluid. Have another person press on the brake pedal to remove the air.
Place the wheel back on and lower the vehicle. Repeat this process for as many sections of the van as needed.
* 16pc hex key set
* 6-piece combination wrench set with steel clip
* 8-inch needle- nose pliers with wire-cutting blades
* 8-inch diagonal pliers
* 8-inch groove-joint pliers
* 7-inch nickel-coated locking pliers
* wire cutters
* 14 flat head screwdrivers: 4, 5, 6, and 7 mm and 3/32-, 1/8-, 5/32-, 3/16- (x3), 7/32-, and 1/4- (x3) inch
* 9 Phillips head: 1x2, 2x5, and 3x2
* 3 square head: S1, S2, and S3
* 10 star head: T6, T7, T8, T10, T15, T20, T25, T27, T30, and T40
* 10 hex: 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 mm and 1/8-, 5/32-, 3/16-, 7/32-, and 1/4-inch
* 4 Pozidriv: PZ0, PZ1, PZ2, and PZ3
* 14 nut drivers
* 13-piece titanium-coated high-speed steel with steel case: 1/4-, 15/64-, 7/32-, 13/64-, 3/16-, 11/64-, 5/32-, 9/64-, 1/8-. 7/64-, 3/32-, 5/64-, and 1/16-inch
* 50-piece chrome vanadium steel 1-inch screwdriver bit set can be used with either a cordless drill or the ratcheting screwdriver included in this kit.
* 5-piece masonry bit set with steel case: 5/32-, 3/16-, 1/4-, 5/16-, and 3/8-inch
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Remove Front end of propshaft from Overdrive, (Mine has a flange like the Axle End). I believe some have the propshaft that slides into the Overdrive. If so take care as when removed the Oil will escape. Drain Gearbox oil before removing propshaft if the Propshaft is the type that slides into the overdrive.
Disconnect leads to overdrive solenoid and inhibit switch at base of gear-lever.
Disconnect leads to reverse light switch.
Remove plate between chassis sides under bell-housing.
Disconnect Speedo Cable.
Disconnect Gear linkages at base of Gear lever. Use some string to tie to the Overdrive as they "flop" about.
Disconnect Clutch Slave Cylinder, tie to one side. No need to disconnect the hydraulics.
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if it is the front brake pads, remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the steering knuckle,remove the pads! Using a c clamp or similar, press the piston back into the caliper. install new pads, and reinstall caliper. Be sure to pump the brake pedal before test driving.
if is it in the rear, remove wheels, open bleeder screw about 1 turn and push caliper piston back with flat screwdriver. leave bleeder open until steady flow of fluid continues to drip out to insure there is no air in system, close bleeder, unbolt caliper, remove caliper and install in reverse order. make sure you lube caliper pins as they must slide free and also rub some grease on brake pad backing plate (NOT SIDE OF PAD THAT TOUCHES ROTOR) where pad touches caliper to help reduce brake noise. usually a quality set of pads will come with grease for brake pads. do not try to save money on brake pads, you get what you pay for!!! thepartsbin would be much better choice for brake parts usual brands is the
Advics Brake Pad Set than Autozone or Advanced Auto parts. Some of the parts from Autozone or Advanced are so bad that we will NOT install them on a customers car even when they bring their own parts into our shop. If you are buying oil, filters, chemicals, etc. Autozone or Advanced is a good place to save money, but there is a reason their parts are cheap. Also, it would be a good idea to replace brake rotors with the new brake pads.
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