Toyota 4Runner Cylinder head replacing.The appropriate details and diagrams to replace cylinder head.Its cylinder head removal and installation procedure.
2UZ-FE Engine Cylinder Head.
Left Side
Right Side
Car repair guide?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/03/car-repair-guide.html
2UZ-FE Engine Cylinder Head.
Removal & Installation
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Drain the engine coolant.
- Remove the throttle body cover.
- Disconnect the timing belt from the camshaft pulleys. For additional information, please refer to the following topic(s): -Timing Belt and Sprockets, Removal &Installation.- Use care when working around the timing belt. Do NOT allow anything to drop inside the timing belt cover. Do NOT allow the timing belt to come into contact with oil, water or dust.
- Remove the camshaft timing pulleys. Please see the -Timing Belt- procedure in this section.
- Remove the camshaft position sensor by removing the bolt and stud bolt and then removing the sensor.
- Disconnect the power steering pump from the engine by disconnecting the lines from the steering gear assembly.
- Disconnect the front exhaust pipe.
- Remove the automatic transmission dipstick and tube.
- Remove the ignition coils.
- Remove the three bolts and the stud bolt and remove the left side and right side timing belt rear plates.
- Disconnect the fuel lines.
- Tag and detach the following electrical connectors:
Throttle Position (TP) sensorAccelerator pedal position sensor connectorThrottle control motor connectorVSV connector for the EVAP systemEight fuel injector connectorsEngine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensorWater sender gauge connectorEight ignition coil connectorsTwo heated oxygen sensor connectors - Tag for identification and disconnect the following hoses:
Vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulatorPCV hose from the PCV valve on the left side cylinder headEVAP hose from the charcoal canister from the VSV for the EVAP systemEVAP hose from the charcoal canister from the EVAP pipe on the intake manifoldPower steering vacuum switch lines from the intake manifoldBrake booster vacuum line - Remove the upper and lower intake manifolds.
- If necessary, remove the water inlet and inlet housing assembly.
- Remove the 18 bolts and seal washers from the cylinder head covers and remove the covers and gaskets. If necessary, remove semi-circular plugs and camshaft housing plugs.
WARNINGSince the thrust clearance of the camshaft is small, the camshaft must be kept level while it is being removed. If the camshaft is not kept level, the portion of the head receiving the shaft thrust may crack or be damaged, causing the camshaft to seize or break. To avoid this, the following steps should be carried out. - Remove the camshafts using the following procedure.
- Check the crankshaft pulley position. Check that the timing mark of the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the centers of the crankshaft pulley bolt and the idler pulley.
WARNINGHaving the crankshaft pulley at the wrong angle can cause the piston head and valve head to come into contact with each other when you remove the camshaft, causing damage. Always set the crankshaft pulley at the correct angle. - Remove the right side camshafts. Bring the service bolt hole of the sub-gear upward by turning the hexagon wrench portion of the exhaust camshaft with a wrench. Secure the sub-gear to the main gear with a bolt 6mm in diameter x 1.0mm thread pitch x 16-20mm long.
WARNINGWhen removing the camshafts, make sure that the torsion spring force of the sub-gear has been eliminated by the above operation. - Set the timing mark (one dot mark) of the camshaft main gear at an angle approximately 10° above horizontal by turning the hexagon wrench portion of the exhaust camshaft with a wrench.
- Uniformly loosen and remove the 22 bearing cap bolts in several passes, in the sequence illustrated.
- Remove the oil feed pipe, the bearing caps and the camshafts.
- Remove the left side camshafts. Bring the service bolt hole of the sub-gear upward by turning the hexagon wrench portion of the exhaust camshaft with a wrench. Secure the sub-gear to the main gear with a bolt 6mm in diameter x 1.0mm thread pitch x 16-20mm long.
WARNINGWhen removing the camshafts, make sure that the torsion spring force of the sub-gear has been eliminated by the above operation. - Align timing marks (two dot marks) of the camshaft drive gear by turning the hexagon wrench portion of the exhaust camshaft with a wrench.
- Uniformly loosen and remove the 22 bearing cap bolts in several passes, in the sequence illustrated.
NOTENote that there are five different length bearing cap bolts that, at assembly, MUST be returned to their proper locations. Mark these bolts or place in holes punched through cardboard to make sure they will be in the proper location and sequence. Take the time to accurately measure each bolt and mark its length on the cardboard. The reason for this is that at assembly, certain lengths of bolts are handled differently, and they are identified by length. - Remove the oil feed pipe, the bearing caps and the camshafts.
NOTEUse care to keep the bearing caps in order, in the exact same sequence and direction as originally installed on the engine.
- Check the crankshaft pulley position. Check that the timing mark of the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the centers of the crankshaft pulley bolt and the idler pulley.
- Uniformly loosen the ten cylinder head bolts on one side of each cylinder head, in several passes, following the sequence illustrated. Repeat for the other side. Remove the twenty head bolts and the flat washers.
WARNINGUse care. Cylinder head warping or cracking could result from removing the bolts in an incorrect order.
WARNINGUse care not to drop the flat washer for a head bolt into the open portion (oil drain-back) of the cylinder head. Anything dropped through this opening will pass through the head and cylinder block and into the oil pan. - Lift the cylinder heads (with the exhaust manifolds attached) from the locating dowels in the cylinder block, and place the heads on protective soft wood block on a workbench. If the cylinder head is reluctant to come off, it may be carefully pried off but use great care not the damage the sealing surfaces of the head or the block. Do NOT tilt the cylinder head at removal or the valve lifters may fall out.
- Remove the exhaust manifolds, as required.
To install:
- Clean all parts well. Cylinder head rebuilding is best left to professionals. The head should be cleaned and inspected before installation.
NOTEThe head bolts used in this engine are designed to stretch and deform slightly. They should be carefully inspected. New service replacement head bolts are strongly recommended. - Toyota suggests installing the exhaust manifold(s) to the cylinder head before the head is installed. Use new gaskets. Factory replacement gaskets should have white painted marks facing the manifold side. Use eight new manifold nuts per manifold and tighten uniformly, in several passes, to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
- Place new cylinder head gaskets on the block. On the rear side of the cylinder head gasket are marks to distinguish the left side and right side banks. There is a 2UR mark on the right side bank and a 2UL mark on the left side bank. Use care to install the gaskets on the correct sides.
- Install the cylinder heads and prepare the head bolts. New service replacement head bolts are strongly recommended. Care must be taken when tightening the head bolts. Use the following guide:
NOTEThe cylinder head bolts are tightened in three progressive steps.
- Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the heads of the bolts.
- Install the flat washers to the head bolts
- Install and uniformly tighten the ten cylinder head bolts (per bank) in several passes in the sequence illustrated. Perform this operation on both banks. On this first pass, tighten the bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
- Mark the front of the cylinder head bolts with a small amount of paint.
- On a second pass, tighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, another 90° ( 1 / 4 turn).
- On a third pass, again tighten the cylinder head bolts, in sequence, another 90° ( 1 / 4 turn).
- Check that the painted mark is now 180° ( 1 / 2 -turn) from its original position.
- Install the spark plugs.
- If disassembled, assemble the exhaust camshafts and sprockets using the following procedure:
- Install the camshaft gear spring, camshaft sub-gear and wave washer. Attach the pins on the gears to the gear spring ends.
- Install the snapring.
- Mount the hexagon wrench head portion of the camshaft in a vise. Use care not to damage the camshaft.
- Using Toyota-s Special Service tool or a suitable pin-type spanner, align the holes of the camshaft main gear and sub-gear by turning the camshaft sub-gear counterclockwise, and temporarily install a bolt 6mm in diameter x 1.0mm thread pitch x 16-20mm long. Make sure the teeth of the gears are aligned, and then tighten the bolt to secure the assembly.
- Remove any old sealer from the semi-circular camshaft housing plugs. Apply fresh sealer to the plug grooves and install the camshaft housing plugs to the cylinder heads.
WARNINGSince the thrust clearance of the camshaft is small, the camshaft must be kept level while it is being installed. If the camshaft is not kept level, the portion of the head receiving the shaft thrust may crack or be damaged, causing the camshaft to seize or break. To avoid this, the following steps should be carried out. - Install the right side camshafts using the following procedure.
- Apply engine assembly lube or multipurpose grease to the thrust portion of the intake and exhaust camshafts.
- Lay the intake and exhaust camshafts carefully in position.
- Set the timing mark (one dot mark) of the camshaft main gear at an angle approximately 10° above horizontal by turning the hexagon wrench portion of the exhaust camshaft with a wrench.
- Remove any old sealer from the front bearing cap. Apply a bead of fresh sealer approximately 1 / 16 inch in diameter, to the areas indicated in the illustration. Use care to keep sealer out of the front bearing cap grooves. Assemble the front bearing cap before the sealer has a chance to skin-over (start to cure). Note that installing the front bearing cap will determine the thrust clearance of the camshaft.
- Install the other bearing caps in the sequence illustrated with the arrow mark facing forward. Align the arrow marks at the front and rear of the cylinder head with the mark on the bearing cap.
- Install a new camshaft oil seal.
- Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads of only two sizes (the two longest) of camshaft bearing cap bolts. These bolts are:
The 2.83 inch (72mm) bolts (called bolt -D-).The 3.70 inch (94mm) bolts (called bolt -E-). - Do NOT apply engine oil under the heads of the remaining camshaft bearing cap bolts. These bolts are:
The 0.98 inch (25mm) bolts (called bolt -A-).The 1.50 inch (38mm) bolts (called bolt -B-).The 2.05 inch (52mm) bolts (called bolt -C-).
- Uniformly tighten the 22 bearing cap bolts in several passes, in the sequence illustrated.
- Torque the shortest bolts (bolt A) to 69 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm).
- Torque all other bolts to 144 inch lbs. (16 Nm).
- Bring the service bolt hole of the sub-gear upward by turning the hexagon wrench portion of the exhaust camshaft with a wrench. Remove the bolt. This allows the torsion spring and sub-gear to remove gear backlash.
- Install the left side camshafts using the same procedure.
- Turn the camshaft(s) and position so the lobes are upward, and check and adjust the valve clearance, noting the following:
- Turn the crankshaft pulley and align its groove with the timing mark 0on the No. 1 timing belt cover.
- Install the timing belt rear plates.
- Check that the timing marks of the camshaft timing pulleys and the timing belt rear plates are aligned. If not, turn the crankshaft exactly one revolution (360°) and align the marks.
- Using a feeler gauge, measure the distance between the valve lifter and camshaft. Clearance should be 0.006-0.010 inch (0.15-0.25mm) on the intake camshaft and 0.010-0.014 inch (0.25-0.35mm) on the exhaust camshaft.
- Clean all old sealer from the four semi-circular camshaft plugs. Apply a fresh bead of sealer to the center groove of the plugs and install the plugs to the cylinder head.
- Clean all old sealer from the cylinder head covers. Apply fresh sealer at the joint where the camshaft front bearing cap meets the cylinder head cover sealing surface. Use new cylinder head cover gaskets. Make sure the seal washers under the bolt heads are in good condition. Install the cylinder head covers. Uniformly tighten the bolts in several passes with final torque to 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm).
- Install the engine lift hangers, if removed and the oil dipstick and guide tube.
- Install the rear and front water bypass assemblies using new gaskets. Tighten the nuts evenly and alternately to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm). Attach the ECT sensor and water sender gauge connectors.
- Install the water inlet housing assembly.
- Install the upper and lower intake manifolds using the procedures found in this section. Use care to make sure the lower intake manifold gaskets are properly installed. Factory replacement gaskets should have white paint marks which should be facing upward. Align the port holes of the gasket and the cylinder head.
- Using the identification tags made at disassembly, connect the following hoses to the intake manifold:
The vacuum hose from the fuel pressure regulator.The PCV hose from the PCV valve on the left side cylinder head.The EVAP hose from the charcoal canister from the VSV for the EVAP system.The EVAP hose from the charcoal canister from the EVAP pipe on the intake manifold.The power steering vacuum switch lines from the intake manifold.The brake booster vacuum line. - Using the identification tags made at disassembly, attach the following electrical connectors:
Throttle Position (TP) sensorAccelerator pedal position sensor connectorThrottle control motor connectorVSV connector for the EVAP systemEight fuel injector connectorsEngine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensorWater sender gauge connectorEight ignition coil connectorsTwo heated oxygen sensor connectors - Connect the fuel lines.
- If not done so earlier, install the timing belt rear plates and tighten the bolts to 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm).
- Install the throttle body.
- Install the ignition coils to their proper spark plug.
- Install the automatic transmission fluid dipstick and fill tube.
- Connect the front exhaust pipe.
- install the power steering pump.
- Install the camshaft position sensor.
- Install the camshaft timing pulleys and the timing belt, using the procedure found in this section.
- Because the engine oil can become contaminated with coolant when a cylinder head is removed, change the oil and install a new filter.
- Refill the engine with coolant.
- Start the engine and check for leaks and abnormal noises.
- Remove the timing belt.
- Remove the camshaft.
- Remove the transmission oil filler tube.
- Remove the engine oil dipstick tube.
- Disconnect the fuel lines.
- Disconnect the vapor hose.
- Disconnect the injector harness.
- Disconnect the water bypass hoses.
- Remove the intake manifold.
- Remove the water inlet housing.
- Remove the front water bypass joint.
- Remove the water bypass assembly.
- Remove the rear water bypass joint.
- Remove the ground cable.
- Remove the front exhaust pipe.
- Loosen the 10 head bolts, evenly and in several passes, in the sequence shown. Remove the bolts and washers.
- Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly, without scratching.
To install
- Check the thread diameter of each head bolt. Outer diameter should be 0.3862-0.3921 inch (9.810-0.960mm). Minimum should be 0.3819 inch (9.700mm).
- Install a new had gasket on the block with the ID mark up. For the right side, the mark is 2UL.
- Install the cylinder head. Lightly oil the 10 bolts and tighten them, in several passes, to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
- Using a torque angle gauge, tighten each bolt, in sequence, an additional 90 degrees, then, tighten each, in sequence another 90 degrees. If an angle gauge is not available, make a paint mark on each bolt head and the cylinder head, and tighten each bolt, in 2, 90 degrees stages, to 180 degrees.
- The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Observe the following torques:
Front exhaust pipe: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)Water inlet housing: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).Water bypass pipe: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)Intake manifold: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)
- Remove the timing belt.
- Remove the camshaft.
- Remove the transmission oil filler tube.
- Remove the engine oil dipstick tube.
- Disconnect the fuel lines.
- Disconnect the vapor hose.
- Disconnect the injector harness.
- Disconnect the water bypass hoses.
- Remove the intake manifold.
- Remove the water inlet housing.
- Remove the front water bypass joint.
- Remove the water bypass assembly.
- Remove the rear water bypass joint.
- Remove the ground cable.
- Remove the front exhaust pipe.
- Loosen the 10 head bolts, evenly and in several passes, in the sequence shown. Remove the bolts and washers.
- Clean the mating surfaces thoroughly, without scratching.
To install
- Check the thread diameter of each head bolt. Outer diameter should be 0.3862-0.3921 inch (9.810-0.960mm). Minimum should be 0.3819 inch (9.700mm).
- Install a new had gasket on the block with the ID mark up. For the right side, the mark is 2UR.
- Install the cylinder head. Lightly oil the 10 bolts and tighten them, in several passes, to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
- Using a torque angle gauge, tighten each bolt, in sequence, an additional 90 degrees, then, tighten each, in sequence another 90 degrees. If an angle gauge is not available, make a paint mark on each bolt head and the cylinder head, and tighten each bolt, in 2, 90 degrees stages, to 180 degrees.
- The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Observe the following torques:
Front exhaust pipe: 46 ft. lbs. (62 Nm)Water inlet housing: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).Water bypass pipe: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)Intake manifold: 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm)
These details will help.
Thanks.
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