P1495 Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circuit?

The error code P1495 indicates issue with leak detection pump.The emission system needs to be inspected.
The leak detect pump, part of the Evaporative Emissions Control System (EVAP).
It  is mounted under the van on the suspension crossmember slightly to the drivers side.
Another thing to be inspected is PCM.The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is mounted next to the battery against the drivers side fender wall.
Both this parts needs to be checked.
The problem lies between those two components and the wiring between. Most of the time the pump needs to be replaced but not always.
It's also recommended to inspect the wiring at the pump and PCM for anything amis. Reset the code either with a scanner or by disconnecting the negative battery lead for a few minutes.
If it returns head to a transmission shop and have them check for transmission specific codes with their specialised transmission scanner. When was the fluid and filter changed last. That could be another good first step. As for the P1495. Disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes to reset the code and see if it comes back.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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2010 Dodge Avenger: Headrest Cable Loose?

Yes it happens many times.The headrest cable gets loose or disconnected from its position.

The headrest cable needs to be re-attached.

The process is simple.
First if you have soft back seat or hard back seat.
To reach the cable if you have a soft back seat then the cover gets unhooked at the bottom and unzipped at the sides, if you have a hard back seat then the trim on the back of the seat gets un-clipped at the top by pulling it back to disengage the clips and then rotate it back and up.

This procedure will help.
Thanks.

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2001 Buick Lesabre: Remove seat to replace battery?

On Buick Lesabre the rear seat has to be out to replace the battery and its connections.The detailed step by step procedure to do so with diagrams is as follows :-----



The Auto stores use a battery vent tube so the battery isn't special its the venting system you remove to remove the battery.

Push in and up on the front of the rear seat cushion.
Disconnect the battery negative cable.
Disconnect the battery positive cableRemove the battery vent tube (1) from the battery.

Remove the battery retainer bolt and battery retainer.

See the diagram shown:----

1. Remove the battery.

This details will help.

Thanks.

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2000 VW Golf Estate: Remove Rear Seat Catch Release?

The Catch release for rear seat is broken and has to be replaced.

This is very simple and just take few minutes.

First remove the release mechanism.The catch mechanism will just get  lifted out from the top of the seat.

But some times it just get difficult in that cases the complete assembly has to be taken apart.
I will define the detailed procedure with help diagrams.To make this task easier for you.

On VW golf the release lever is on top of the seat.

On some car models the release lever is on the back of the rear seat in the boot area.

But in  either way the release levers and cables are prone to snapping inside the seat, and it will be a case of removing the other seat to then remove this seat and then partially strip the seat cover and backing to gain access to the release lever and cable for replacement.

See the diagram shown below for more help:-----







What you have to do is,Pull out seat cover from panel in boot on back of seat,this will give you some slack to then go behind seat cover from inside the car to then gain access to latch to allow you to release it from the striker plate, this wont be easy and can be very tight and not much room. You will also need to remove the lower bench seat to gain as much access as possible.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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Brake Pedal Problem?

Brake pedal goes all the way to the floor.Loose brake pedal or no pressure in brake pedal.These problems are very much noticed by car drivers.

Brake fluid runs in the brake lines when brake pedal is depressed.If brake fluid is low or leaking then required brake fluid pressure will not get created and brake pedal will loose its actual firmness and fall down loose on floor.

The first hing to be inspected is master cylinder.The master cylinder is the part from where brake fluid runs to brake lines and required pressure is applied on braking system.
The brake master cylinder relies  on brake fluid to push hydraulic pressure which is transferred to the various front or rear wheel to provide brake pad and shoe friction to slow down the wheel speed.

What parts should be checked to start the brake pedal problem troubleshooting?

There are many possibilities that can cause this brake pedal issues and problems.

First of all check the brake fluid level.If the fluid is low,then pressure will be less.In that case brake fluid needs to be filled.
Check the brake fluid level in master cylinder.If your brake fluid level is less that its actual requirement,then inspect the front and rear brake pads/shoes.If this parts are worn out,then brake fluid will be bit low.In that case replace the brake pads and shoes.But if brake pad/shoes are not damaged or worn out,then low brake fluid is due to leakage.Try tracing the brake fluid lea at master cylinder,inspect brake lines,inspect brake calipers,wheel cylinders,cracked worn out hoses or brake line getting rusted and broken in between.
Many a times brake fluid leans and gets in contact with brake shoes and brake pads.And this causes brake line to get contaminated.In that case replace the brake components pads/shoes.
This all can cause brake fluid to leak.

What if i notice no brake fluid leak and What if Brake fluid is Full?
YES.If you see that brake fluid is full and not at all leaking.Still there is possibly that master cylinder itself is faulty and causing the brake pedal issues and braking problems.
There are seals in the master cylinder.This seals inside the master cylinder gets worn out and loose its firmness.In return this causes  the fluid from the front of the master cylinder plunger to slip through to the rear of the plunger and back into the fluid reservoir. And due to this brake pedal go to the floor with out pressurizing brake fluid into the system. 


Are there Any  other possibilities except low brake fluid or faulty master cylinder?


Yes if all this basics and most common brake pedal problem possibilities are checked ok.Then inspect the condition of Axle bearings.In some cases at our garage we notice that faulty and worn out damaged axle bearings cause this loose brake pedal and brake system problems.
Axle bearings is there to hold the wheel to Axle shaft.And this bearings by holding the Axle shaft allows the wheels to rotate/spin freely.When this bearings worn out,you will notice that rotor is moving back and forth.And due to this brake pads looses its grip and moves/gets inside to the caliper.So now when you press/depress the brake pedal to stop the vehicle or to slow down the vehicle the brake pedal goes to the floor and fill the caliper with the fluid.
So due to this the brake pedal will directly not come up after you release the brake pedal,it will take few brake pedal pumps to regain its pressure to come up.
I this is the case then inspect and replace the Axle bearing.


In some cases its also noticed that air gets into the brake lines or brake system and this cause brake pedal issues.


But why the Air Enters the Brake System or How the Air Enters the brake lines


Actually by time the age of brake calipers or wheel cylinders gets over.This brake system components gets worn out or cracked and when this happens the air gets entered in to the braking system.So first try to bleed the Ar from the System.For that looses the bleeder screw located on the brake calipers or on whee cylinders.There are 4 bleeder screws one for each wheel.But if you notice air is again getting into the system in few minutes ten brake calipers or wheel cylinders needs to be replaced to take care of this problem.




This details will help you understand and take care of the brake pedal issues and problem.
Thanks.

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Brake Warning Light Comes Up On Dash?

Brake Warning Light Comes up on dash,this is indication to check and inspect Brake System.The warning light is RED led light illuminating on Cars dash board panel.
When this light comes up while driving,its always advisable to first inspect the brake system instead of driving the vehicle.Its dangerous to drive the vehicle with Brake warning light on dash.

What are the basic reasons for Brake Warning Light to Come Up on dash?


This light comes up due to multiple reasons related to brake system.But in most of cases this brake warning is ON,due to low brake fluid or the Emergency brake system is Activated and not Turned off.The Brake System is divided into two parts.Front brake system and rear brake system.The Brake fluid which runs into the brake system provides hydraulic pressure to activate the brake caliper or wheel cylinder when brake pedal is pressed.If Any of the brake system Front or rear is not receiving that required hydraulic pressure then Brake warning indicator will be seen.

So first inspect the brake fluid in the brake Reservoir and also check the Emergency brake System,if its activated then Turn o\it Off or Deactivate it.

Any more other Possibility for Brake Warning Light On Dash?

Yes,other that check for any brake fluid leak.The fluid leak from brake pads or at master cylinder. Also inspect the condition of brake pads.If the front brake pads are worn the brake fluid level will be low in the master cylinder. This due to lesser amount of material remaining on the brake pads. If no leaks are present check the front and rear brake pads.If the brake pads are worn out,then replace it.

Master cylinder fails and can cause external leak.The seals on front or rear brake caliper fails and this cause brake fluid to leak.Wheel cylinder seals get rusted or corroded cylinder bore and cause Brake fluid leak.

From where the Brake Fluid Leaks?

In many cases its seen that brake fluid leaks.This leak can be slow drop by drop leak or it can be massive amount of fluid leak.

The Leak can be seen at any of the following parts.
Brake master cylinder reservoir,brake calipers or wheel cylinders or it can be from brake system flex hoses.

If you notice that brake pads are worn out,then its obvious that brake fluid will be low and that is due to worn out brake pads.

But Why this Happens?

This is noticed because when brake pads gets worn out they will not hold the brake fluid flow pressure and in return allow brake fluid to fill into the caliper instead of brake fluid remaining in the brake master cylinder reservoir.
So due to this if the brake system is not leaking and the fluid level is low check the front or rear brake pads.
Now once the brake pads are replaced recheck the fluid level, flush and bleed the system as needed this will help to confirm the leak is there or not.

Why Brake Fluid Leaks From Brake Hoses?

Yes.Its possible the brake hoses gets cracked or loose or worn out and can cause the leak.
The hose is made up of rubber reinforced to nylon material. The hose has three separate layers. Inner layer,between layer and outer layer.
The inner hose is brake fluid resistant rubber.Between layer is nylon mesh and outer layer of hose is weather resistant. At the End of each hose you will see metal fitting this fittings give them proper grip to hold the brake lines.But in most cases this is a common place for the brake hose to leak.

Repairing metallic brake lines?
It can be soldered cover by leak resistant material.But its not advisable,because this does not last long.This is just a temporary option.The metallic brake lines runs from master cylinder to brake system pats.The brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir flow will such a heavy force that if the line is repaired then it will again get leaked also unwanted air can enter the brake system if line is cracked a bit.So repairing the metallic brake line is always advisable.

How to Take Regular Care Of My Cars Brake System?

OR 

What Maintenance should be takes to Keep Brake System Fine and working?

Every car part worn out by time and age.Gets rusted or corroded or cracked or in some cases breaks down in pieces.But As per brake system maintenance and service.The brake pads or shoes are the parts that needs to be inspected on regular basis.You can say inspect brake pads and shoes every 15 days.This part has life from 1month to 1 year but can fail any time in between.So checking the brake system part will always give you cen-percent idea about this part.If they are failed or near to failing.

As per Bare Service repair manual it says that most brake pads will last between 15,000 and 30,000 miles. But this all depends upon driving habit and conditions of the road on which the car is driven. Mostly Brake shoes are located on the rear of some cars. Drum brake gets more affected by water than brake discs and are not located on the front of any new vehicle.

WHAT IS EMERGENCY BRAKE SYSTEM?

This types of braking system are used to hold the car when its parked.

In many cases its seen that Hydraulic brake system failure is due to Failure in Emergency braking system.

The Emergency brake system is operated via rear brakes of the car.

In most of car models emergency brake system is VIA right foot lever on the driver’s side (and left foot level in European model cars.

The Braking system works by a pull handle.The brake system pull handle is located at the lower dash level on the driver’s side or a level between the drivers and passages seats.

This System does not require Hydraulic pressure to get operated.Its just the Brake System that's operated by Cables.The Level when pressed down By hand the Brakes gets De-Activated and when Pull up the Brake gets Activated.The Emergency brake System is indirectly connected to the Actual brake System which you Use by foot brake pedal.It is either used as part of the main brake shoes or a set of auxiliary shoes located to side of rear brake rotor.For this System the cables are used under the Pull Level to transfer the power from the emergency brake lever to the brake activation mechanism. An emergency brake is configured as a brake drum in most of vehicle models. 

What if i see Yellow or Orange Warning Light On Dash Board Panel?

This Lights illuminate on the cars or vehicle equipped with ABS Braking System.

When the Brake System fails you get RED warning light on Dash.But Yellow or orange light is Different from Red Warning light.

First of All ABS means Anti Brake Skid Brake system.

There is additional ABS function included in the Actual Braking System.

When the ABS system warning light comes on it means the ABS portion of the system has stopped working. In this condition you require a ABS scan tool.Which you can get at any local Auto part store.With the help of that scan tool you can retrieve the error codes stored in the cars computer system.Once the Error code is retrieved,that code will point out towards the faulty part,that is causing the Yellow or Orange ABS warning light to come ON.

So as per that you can get the faulty part replaced.The ABS system gets resets once the part is replaced.In some cases you need to reset the ABS system by Same ABS scan tool,after the part is replaced.

Please give me more Brake System Maintenance tips?

Brake fluid replacing/changing/filling.While doing any of this please make sure you use correct brake fluid which is recommended by the dealer or its mentioned in cars owners manual.Most car model use DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.But still get confirmation about your car,before replacing brake fluid. Aftermarket or cheap brake fluid will not have the capacity to get heated to the actual boiling temperature and due to this exact brake fluid pressure will not get created and braking problems will be noticed very frequently.

Some manufacturers have designed a silicone based fluid that is more resilient to heat and can outperform the petroleum based fluids. The brake fluid container should be air tight and stored in a cool dry place free from moisture.

Moisture is enemy to brake system parts.If you notice moisture is brake fluid or in brake lines then bleed the brake system.Due to moisture the brake components gets rusted inside also seal can get loose and loose the grip and at last fail.

In many cases its seen that due to moisture the master cylinder fails and needs to be replaced.

After the brake fluid is filled, don't forget to flush and bleed the system.Flushing clean the inside brake lines and bleed will remove any air in the brake lines.If air bubbles are not removed it can cause the brake system to have a low or spongy pedal. Too much air will not allow the entire brake system to work.

Many times after brake fluid leak problem or low brake fluid problem is solved.You will see that Brake warning light.The Read brake warning light is still ON.This is not due to any major problem.This light comes up because or proportioning valve.
The brake proportioning valve is not in its exact position due to the system leak.In this condition you need to reset the Valve. To reset this valve stop the car. With a stabbing motion push the brake pedal and release. This procedure will give jerk to the valve and push the valve plunger to the center of the valve and turn off the brake warning light.

This details will help you understand troubleshoot the Brake Warning Light Problem.

Thanks.

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Brake System Servicing?

Bleed and Flush Brake System.

Many a times the Driver notice problem with brake system.The brake pedal gets hard or very loose spongy.Brake pedal goes all the way down to the floor.
This is indication of problem with brake System.
In this cases the Brake lines needs to be cleaned and Serviced.

How Exactly The Brake System Works?
There is a brake Fluid.Its a Hydraulic based Brake fluid.
This brake fluid transfer force from the brake pedal to the brake caliper or the wheel cylinder.

What happens if Brake Fluid is dirty?
In most of the brake failure issues,the cause of the problem is dirty or contaminated brake fluid.
The brake fluid has to be replaced regularly as per the service intervals.

Why to Replace Brake fluid?
The Moisture and other dirt gets collected and settled in the brake lines by time.
The brake system fluid change remove moisture, air and containment's from the braking system. Moisture is the leading cause of brake system operation failure.
Also replacing the brake fluid makes the braking system more fluent and easy.Brake fluid is subject to extreme pressure and heat so the boiling point of brake fluid is important.Higher boiling points (severe duty) and Anti-Lock braking systems require higher quality brake fluid; this fluid must also have a very low freezing point.Then only you get exact brake ability and brake function.

Also use brake fluid that is recommended by dealer and also mentioned in service manual.Dont use low quality or non branded cheaper quality local brake fluid.This fluids are less by cost ,but can damage the brake system.The brake fluid should have proper boiling ability,local brake fluid dont have this ability and so dont last long and this not at all helps in lubricating internal brake system parts.

Always add and flush your brake system with the manufacturers recommended brake fluid or you get get correct brake fluid for your car from your car dealer. Please be careful all brake fluid is corrosive.Be very careful when handling brake fluid.

What basic care should be taken while dealing with brake Fluid?
While Flushing or replacing brake fluid,you can very hand gloves.Keep basic tap water filled jug ready.If in case any brake fluid is spilled or sprayed on your hand or got in contact with skin,then immediately clean he skin with normal water.While replacing brake fluid,use a sealed container and dont let any moisture to enter the brake system.If in case moisture is entered then get the system flushed to remove the dirt and moisture out,after the brake fluid is filled.Once the brake system is properly flushed the brake system bleed procedure is performed.This system releases the unwanted air from the system,so that exact brake fluid pressure remain in the system.If there is Air in the brake lines then brake pedal will not behave properly.You will notice loose or very hard brake pedal.Also when pressing the brake pedal,the car will not stop completely.
Once the brake bleed procedure is done,check the brake pedal operation,if its not functioning right,then recheck the brake system and braking parts again.Dont drive the car till the brake pedal is functioning right.

If you notice brake fluid is leaking,then inspect brake master cylinder.In most cases brake fluid leaks ue to faulty master cylinder.

Fill the brake fluid to its correct full level.

How to remove the brake fluid?
To remove the brake fluid there is a tool available at local auto part stores.To replace brae fluid just remove the cap from brake reservoir and insert the brake fluid removal tool in the reservoir.Its a tube like tool, which will easily get into the reservoir.Then just remove the most of brake fluid out of the reservoir and collect the old brake fluid in a empty pan.
Once the fluid stops getting pulled out of he reservoir,now start filling the manual recommended brake fluid in the master cylinder.
The master cylinder will get filled to full level in some time,after that loosen the brake bleeder screws.This bleeder screws are located on the brake calipers or on wheel cylinders.There are basically 4 brake bleeder screws.
Now for further part of procedure,you will need one helper.Get the brake pedal pressed down completely,now quickly tighten the bleeder screws and tell the helper to release the brake pedal.
The brake pedal will slowly return to its actual position and new fluid will enter to the master cylinder body.
Once the pedal is come up,repeat the same procedure till you see clean brake fluid at all bleeders.

How the clean brake fluid will enter the Bleeder?
When you press the brake peal with bleeder screw loose,the dirty brake fluid spill out.Then you close the bleeder screw and brake pedal comes up.When brake pedal is coming up,it is pulling the good fluid,which you filled in the master cylinder.Again once the brake pedal is up,you repeat the same procedure of loosening the bleeder screws,now again press the brake pedal completely,then close the bleeder screw ,the brake pedal will come up.
When you notice that clear brake fluid is coming out of all 4 bleeder valves when you depress brake pedal,then its confirmed that new brake fluid is entered the brake system and brake lines.

Once this procedure is done,you have to refill the master cylinder to its correct level.Because the fluid which you fill first time in master cylinder has not entered the brake lines,when you did brake bleed / fill procedure.
So master cylinder fluid level is low,therefore fill the master cylinder again with correct fluid to its required level.

Please Help The brake bleeder screw is very tight and not coming out?
This problem is seen many a times.A client complaints about brake bleeder screw getting very tight and not getting loose.
All bleeder screws seal against a taper fit seat in the brake wheel cylinder or caliper to create the valve.This helps to controls brake fluid flow. So its always advisable that you use WD-40 Spray or other similar rust removal spray when loosening a brake bleeder .This spray is aid to dilute the rust which makes the screw tight and not let it to get loose.

Please Help,Brake fluid is not coming out of One Bleeder Valve,but its coming out of other 3 Bleeder valves?

When brake fluid bleed procedure is performed the brake fluid not getting bleed from one or two bleeder valves.This complaint is very common by many of out clients.
This is nothing to worry.The brake fluid bleed or fill procedure is not done regularly,this causes the bleeder valve hole and brake lines to get clog and fill with dirt and contaminated.Due to this brake fluid will not flow fluently when pressing the brake pedal.In this case try this basic  procedure.
Only open the plugged bleeder and let the other 3 or 2 bleeder  closed and now  press the brake pedal down. This will create additional pressure from the other bleeders being closed,and force the fluid out of the plugged bleeder. Once the bleeder has become unplugged finish the bleeding procedure until clean fluid is present. Then close the bleeder and release the brake pedal slowly.


This will help you to understand the Brake System.

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1995 Pontiac Grand AM: Will not Start?

The Engine turns over but not start.
Already replaced parts to resolve the issue.
The Fault was detected for spark plugs and Ignition system.

After replacing Ignition module,Spark plugs and coils the Engine turns over but will not get start.

This types of issues are very common on many care models.

The parts replaced are not getting properly aligned and replaced.


Not much you can do wrong on this set-up. Take it back apart and make sure the coils are plugged in securely and make sure that the harness connectors are secure and no pinched wires.

If ok, then you have a defective ignition module out of the box, which if aftermarket is not that uncommon.
At our Auto repair garage we see and notice this things happening lots of time. Many a times new aftermarket parts dont support and replacing it with another parts starts up.

Remove module and return for another one.

Hope this helps.

Thanks.

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2007 Dodge Dakota: Wheel Hop issues?

There are multiple possibilities that can cause this.

First check do you hear any noise.If yes then what kind of noise.
Any whining, roaring, growling,ticking,tapping or clicking type of noise.

OR no noise at all.

Other thing inspect where you feel the Wheel hop.In the front side area or towards the rear end area.,In most cases its noticed on rear end.

Also get the Wheels and tires inspected for any damage or worn out.

Mostly in this cases the brake functions right but wheel hop gets actually noticed when brake pedal is pressed.

In this case first try to put the transmission in neutral as well as in the gears.
And see if the Wheel hop disappears in any mode or  remains in both.

If you notice wheel hop in both neutral and drive mode then,

usually a rear end hop is caused by a problem on just one side.

Place rear end in the air on jackstands. Have someone place it in gear and accelerate until speedo is showing 60-65mph.

Watch the tires as he accelerates. You should see a hopping of the wheel on one side. Swap rear wheels - left to right and right to left side. If hop goes to the other side, then either a bent rim or belt separation in tire that is not always picked up on wheel balance.

If hop remains on same side, then the axle shaft is bent and will need to be replaced.

If, on rare occurance, both sides are hopping, then there is internal rear differential failure causing both axle shafts to move.

But if you try rotating the wheels and its not helping to diagnose the issue then mostly is bent axle issue.


since you have rotated tires front to back and no change, then we can definitely eliminate the tires/wheels as the source.

Depending upon how bent and where it is bent, you may not feel a bent axle until highway speeds.

In addition to the test I gave, if you have a dial indicator or can get one, remove the tires and drums and put the dial indicator on the hub and check for runout. Any runout over .005" of an inch will be felt as a hop. This also indicate bent axle shaft.

If all checks out ok, then I will suggest to  pull the axle shafts and inspect the inner ends for unusual wear patterns and check the spider gears and carrier for worn/missing/broken teeth.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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2007 Cadillac CTS: Brake System Locking up?

Suddenly while driving at highway speeds the Anti brake System gets locked up.
The Garage said there is no leak detected at any tires.

This is actually low pressure in tire problems.
It can be any of the tires problem.
Either front tires are getting low or rear tires are getting low.
The pressure in all the tires should be similar,if not then there rotational speed will differ and this causes the Brake system to get locked.

In most cases the problem is noticed on rear tires.But dont ignore front tire inspection too.


Yes, low tire pressure will definitely cause the ABS to activate and lock up. This is because one rear tire with lower pressure rotates at a different rate of speed, which causes different rates of speed being registered between the left rear and right rear tire in the ABS/Traction control control module and causes the locking up.

This is something commonly overlooked when diagnosing this problem and you wind up replacing all the wheel speed sensors for no reason.

=================

Difference of 3psi is enough to cause the activation due to different rate of rotational speed. It isnt by how low one tire pressure is, but difference between the right rear and left rear tires.for example if both are at 30psi, all would be good as far as ABS. But if one is 35psi and one at 32psi, then this difference between the 2 is enough.

Try filling the Air in to the tire in which the pressure is tested low then other 3 tires or other two tires.Now if this problem goes away but again returns in few days or weeks,then you know there is definitely a air leak from tires.
By you putting more air into the one, combined with it only happening before when a tire was low, the we know 100% that this is the cause of the ABS activation and nothing else.

As per me i think the garage has failed to trace the leak.Some time the leak is very minute and takes time to get detected.
As to them missing the leak, yes it is very possible to miss finding a slow leak when tire is put in a tub of water unless it is soaked for several hours.





The best thing would be to go ahead and replace the tire that keeps going low or have them keep it all day in a tub of water until the leak is identified and fixed if possible or replaced. Most of the time a very slow leak is either at the valve stem or around the bead of the tire at the rim.

If it locks up on the higway all you can do is try to control the skid.

One alternative until the leak is identified and repaired would be to remove the ABS fuse in the engine compartment fusebox. This will cause the ABS light to come on until fuse reinstalled, but would disable the ABS system and prevent it from locking up until tire issue resolved.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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2001 BMW 325I: Cost to replace Fan Clutch and Assembly?

Fan clutch and Fan Assembly both tested inoperative.In this state both are to be replaced.

Getting it done professionally is always advisable.If you are not car tech savvy.Its not a easy task.


Fan clutch labor is 1hours
Fan assembly labor is 2.0 hours

Total labor time is 3.0 hours. Even at highest rate I have seen at a BMW dealer of $130 per hour, that is only $370

Fan clutch is $210
Fan assembly is only $145

Total parts and labor $855.

So approx the Complete Part replacement cost will be between $800 to $850.

Always deal is original company parts instead of cheap aftermarket parts.Aftermarket parts are not bad parts but they don't provide exact result and there performance lacy then original parts.Also they don't last long.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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ABS and Traction Control Light ON?

There are few basic,that are to be inspected to confirm why ABS and Trac control light coming up ON dashboard panel.


Most of the time this is due to either a faulty left or right wheel speed sensor, speed sensor tone ring or short in wiring harness, but may also be due to low tire pressure in one of the rear tires that cause the tires to spin at different rates.

First make sure the rear tires have same air pressure in each. If ok, then the ABS control module needs to be read with diagnostic scanner to retreive the fault code(s) in order to know which side the problem resides in and then the wheel speed sensor on the indicated side is tested and tone ring inspected for cracks, chips or breaks in it.

This details will help.
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2005 Honda Accord: A/C Not Starting?

First of all check,that do you hear any thing when you turn on the A/c control button.
Do you hear compressor getting engage.Is the compressor turning ON,when you turn on A/C.

Ok,if you hear no noise then before getting into too much troubleshooting.First check basics.The A/C control fuse and A/c Control relay.


These could be something as simple as a blown fuse or bad relay, or could be much more serious such as bad compressor to control unit.

First, check the #30 fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box. If blown, replace it.

IF ok, in the engine compartment fuse/relay box is a relay labeled ac compressor relay. Swap it with a relay next to it and see if compressor engages. If it does, then purchase a new relay.

BUT if relay and fuse both checks ok, then for further troubleshooting it will require some professional diagnostics as the ac pressures will need to be checked and then electrical system tested for the ac system.

This details will help.
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2006 Toyota Sienna: Rack and Pinion Leaks?

Rack and Pinion leaking.

Its advisable to get it replaced.
But the other option is to overhaul it completely to repair this issue without replacing the parts.


They can be overhauled, but it still requires removing the rack and pinion. And then it has to be completely disassembled to replace the inner seals to repair leak.

Labor to remove the rack and overhaul it is 6.3 hours, which will be about $630 for labor. Overhaul kit runs $120.

Total will be about $750, which would save a little over the price of a remanufactured one. The only real problem you will have is finding a shop willing to do this. Most techs dont overhaul them any more as it does require speciality tools that run about $300 and they just dont pay for themselves as you dont encounter enough Sienna rack and pinions as a tech to warrant purchasing these tools.

If you want to do this route, you will need to call around to shops to find one that has a tech that can overhaul the rack and pinion.

BUT i suggest you to get it replaced.
Because there will not me much difference


 labor time to replace the rack and pinion is 3.6 hours, which at avg labor rates of around $100 per hour will be about $360.

A rack and pinion for yours cost $891 for new from Toyota. A remanufactured aftermarket rack and pinion runs $560.

So, for new part, about $1251 plus tax
For a remanufactured unit, about $920 plus tax.

This details will help.
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2004 Dodge Dakota: Exhaust Manifold Leaks?

Yes in most of cases the Exhaust manifold itself has to be replaced in such cases.

Mostly you will notice leak to the point where the muffler pipe meats.

On this years vehicle model it has a half-round donut gasket between the downpipe and exhaust manifold.
The ceramic donut is molded to manifold.


But, before you replace the manifold try this. Go to your local parts store and get a tube of muffler cement. Drop the exhaust pipe and coat the gasket with the muffler cement. Now, bolt the pipe back up to it and allow to dry for about 4 hours.

Now crank it up and see if it sealed the leak. Professional garage mechanics have got  lots of  success rate with this and saving  there customers alot of money.

But if its not helping then replacing the manifold is only option.

This details will help.
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2000 Lexus LS400: Remove Blower Motor Unit Case?

HVAC Blower Motor UNIT case removal procedure with details and diagram.


REMOVE THESE PARTS:
1)Front door scuff plate RH
2) Cowl side trim RH
3) No.2 under cover

REMOVE BLOWER MOTOR
1) Disconnect the connector.
2) Remove the 3 screws and blower motor.
INSTALLATION
Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

See the Helpful diagram shown below:----



Please note:-----
The scuff plates just pull off just pull back rug and three screws.
They are at the bottom of the opening of the door and they can just pull off.

See blower motor and parts removal diagram :----




This will help.
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1992 Lexus LS400: Fuel Gauge Not Working?

The Fuel Gauge Controls are not showing up on Dash.
Its a problem noticed on many car model/brands.


More often than not, the fuel level sending unit in the tank is the culprit. There are several electrical and ohm tests we could do to check it.

But  first, before you start taking things apart...take a large rubber mallet, and tap on the bottom of the tank. Sometimes, the tapping will jar the sending unit. It may just have a poor ground connection.But if this tapping is not helping to make the gauges work then, the sending unit is bad,  it will cost you about $180.00 at your local Lexus parts dealer. I would recommend against "aftermarket" sending units.
Always use original parts instead of aftermarket part.
Aftermarket parts are not at all bad parts,but they dont give exact performance and there life span is less then original parts.

This details will help.
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1999 Lexus GS300: Wheel noise and Engine oil Leak?

The Noise is heard from front wheel on driver side.
In this cases the noise can be groaning noise or pinging type noise heard  while driving.

The Engine oil problem is noticed from towards the oil pan.

This types of problems are noticed by many others too.


Ok, it wont be from the wheel bearing. The wheel bearing is a sealed unit in your car and there isnt even a tablespoon of oil sealed in it.

Believe you have 2 different issues going on.

The noise you are hearing is likely from the lower control arm bushings or lower balljoint. They need to be inspected and whichever one has excess play in it replaced.

The fluid is probably just what you believe, engine oil. the oil pan gasket, oil filter and oil pressure sensor need to be checked as one of these has a slight leak


Now To fix these issues (Ball Joint or Control Arm):-----

You just need a balljoint removal tool, which is basically a press to press it out of the control arm if balljoint. If control arm bushings, a vertical hydraulic press is need to get the bushings out the control arm.

If control arm bushings, no danger of tire falling off but will cause excessive tire wear. If lower balljoint, as it gets worse, there is chance of it separating from the control arm which owould cause tire to fall inward towards engine compartment

To check the balljoiint, raise the front wheel off the ground abour 2". Have someone use a long prybar to wedge between tire and ground and lift upwards on tire will you watch the balljoint. If there is any visible movement, replace it.

For control arm bushings, check for any space between the bushings and the control arm, as well as any torn pieces in the bushings and replace as needed



For your Information i will say:-----
Control arm bushings are always caused by wear.
But for Balljoints, it is about 50/50 on being due to wear or a sudden "shock". It can be cumulative between the  two Balljoints from the factory on your car are sealed units unlike older ones that could be greased. So they do wear more quickly than older cars, and then something like whaty happened with you can finally cause their weakening to the point of being noticable.
And even then, it can take something else happening before you hear the noise as they have a constant load on them that can keep them in place and no noise, but then you go over another bump and the load changes so that the looseness in the balljoint is felt and heard.

Getting this possibilities checked will help.
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All warning lights on Dash comes and engine will not crank over?

Just getting a click noise under hood while starting.The engine will not properly crank over.There is some power noticed but car will not start.
Already tried jump start ,but still no progress..


If all the warning lights are illuminating and it does not appear to be anything not functioning electrically the chances are that jump start was not performed properly.
May be it got jump at backwards and this blow several fuses.OR  If the click/clunk is coming from the engine itself it sounds like the starter contacts in the starter itself are going bad. It is either that or there's not enough current flow to keep the starter engage. If you can isolate where the noise is coming from more specifically that would be helpful. But based on detail to this point it sounds like the starter is not staying engaged or the contacts are bad in the starter that engage the solenoid. If a jumpstart with good cables and a good battery do not assist in getting the starter turning the engine over it's not likely a battery issue.But the starter problem.

Getting this possibilities checked.
This will help.
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Toyota: Install Supercharger Kit?

The Description for Using 2005+ model Toyota Tacoma Super charger Kit on 2011 Toyota Hilux car model.

For your Information i will mention that
Australian Toyota Hilux 2.7L VVTI Workmate 2011 is the same as the 2005 and later model Tacoma in the united states.

Yes, the Toyota hilux is essentially the same vehicle as the Toyota Tacoma in the United States. The engines are the same. The only thing that might be slightly different would be the exhaust depending on the type of emissions controls or catalytic converters that are used in Australia vs. USA. The engines are identical. The engine compartments are identical. The only other thing I could think of that might be a minor issue would be because of the right-hand drive used in Australia. If you are handy and able to think outside the box then it should not be an issue to install.
Hope all goes well and it all works perfect.

This details will help.
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2006 Toyota Hilux 4WD: Noise from Gearbox when Clutch pedal is Disengaged?

Strange but common problem.
The loud from gearbox is heard.But if the Clutch pedal is pushed towards the floor the noise will go away.In the same way when clutch pedal is not pushed the noise is heard from gear box.

As per description this sounds like the input shaft bearing in the transmission or the intermediate shaft bearing is going bad. The trans needs removed and inspected or put up on a lift and use a stethoscope to listen to the gear box to confirm the location. If you pull the drain plug see if there is any metal debris on the magnet.

Getting this possible parts inspected checked will help to confirm the issue.

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1996 Toyota RAV4:Front Strut Inserts?

Sorry to Say,1996 model don't use Strut inserts its a one assembly part.

The only thing that is available is the strut. They do not make inserts for the strut housing as they did back in the 80s. You can purchase just the strut assembly you do not need the spring and strut top. Some places like to sell the complete assembly.

To confirm this
Lift the boot up on the strut and see the top of the strut housing where the shaft goes into it.
That bottom spring seat is welded on to the housing.

In some cases you will notice strut making noise.To confirm this get the bounce test done.
The struts do not normally make noise. If they pass the bounce test then check the strut tops. Some times the rubber in them rattles when it gets hard. Also check the stabilizer links for play. These are known to make noise over bumps.

This details will help.
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2010 Lexus RX350: Vehicle Skid Control Light ON?

Is it safe to drive with VSC Light ON.

The vehicle should be safe to drive until you get this inspected. Just keep in mind that the vehicle skid control system will be disabled and it will drive and handle as a normal vehicle. This should be covered for three years and 36,000 miles. That puts you within the manufacturers warranty time wise provided your mileage isn't out of the limit you should be taking care of under warranty. Even if you're slightly out I would ask for some goodwill assistance from local mechanic or near by Lexus dealership to have this inspected and repaired.

Any Toyota dealer should be able to handle and usually will be cheaper.

This details will help.
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2005 Toyota Highlander: Driveshaft Vibration on Acceleration?

The Vibration can increase or decrease as per speeds and driving condition on this cases.

If the steering wheel is vibrating and it only occurs when you're applying the brakes this means that one of the four rotors and usually it is the front rotors is out of round or warped. The vibration that you're feeling comes and goes on acceleration at higher speeds and is felt in the floor panel may be related to the U joint in the rear driveshaft. This rear driveshaft was notorious for the front two u joints in the front portion of the driveshaft to get loose. Have the driveshaft joints inspected. You're probably going to need to resurface the front rotors also.

The description of the vibration being more or less as you increase or reduce speed is pretty characteristic of a bad u joint in the rear driveshaft.

Please note that the joint in the driveshaft cannot be purchased separately. The Entire driveshaft has to be replaced to correct this vibration if the joint is in fact bad as I suspect that it is.

This details will help.
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1994 Toyota LandCruiser: Insert Joints to the Drive Shaft Forks?

Replacing Spider At the Rear Propeller Shaft.

To Replace Spider :-----
If it is frozen or stuck throw the clamping press away and get the torches out and cut through the joint and then tap the caps out towards the inside.

Now doing this will just leave you with the forks.
Get the new spider in between the forks.

On this model there is circlips but there is no channel for the circlips in the fork holes.

If there are no grooves in the forks then it has to have the joint with the inside c-clips.

If there are no grooves in the forks, then you will  have the joint where the 4 end pieces come of the plus shape piece.

The caps should have grooves on the inside edge by the rubber seals.

Once the 4 yokes/forks are clean insert the joint into the drive shaft forks then insert one cap in the fork and slide the joint into the cap to keep the needles in place. Then press the cap and joint in and beyond where it needs to be so when you install the cap on the other side the joint will side back and fort between the 2 caps with out the needle bearings coming out or being off the end of the joint. Then press the new cap just put on the fork on making sure the joint is still sliding back and forth smoothly between the 2 caps. Then install the one C-clip in the groove just behind the boot seal and continue to press the opposite cap and joint until it hits up against the c-clip. Then install the other c-clip. If the joint is to tight install on of the other caps on the joint and tap it back and forth to free it up. The repeat the whole process over to install the forks of the yoke.

This details will help.
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1989 Toyota pickup: Running Lights Not Working?

The problem with rear running lights not operating.

If can be fuse issue or the problem with Headlight switch itself.

First check and confirm this.

Check the fuse for the tail lights.
Also see that  front marker lights work OR its not coming ON.
Also try to hear the relay click noise. Can you hear the tail light relay click on when the switch is turned to the tail light position.
======


Just Locate the relay and see it if is clicking while someone turns the lights on.. This will rule out the headlight switch and so you can test other possible parts.Please note that  the head light relay is different from the tail light relay.
============


The tail light relay is just above the 15 amp tail light fuse in the left kick panel fuse box.

Just check this relay and inspect the fuse.If they are old/ rusted and shorted/ blown.Then i suggest replace it and see if that is helping to get the Rear running lights working Again.
For testing the fuse make sure there is 12 volts to the fuse.
=============

BUT if you get 12 volts towards the fuse and the relay gives proper click when lights are turned ON,then its the issue of wiring and not the relay or fuse.
============
To confirm its wiring issue just check this way:-----

Probe the backside of the fuse on both sides of the fuse.


Check properly that the taillight relay is clicking when you turn the headlight switch to the taillight position.
Also If it is clicking then you should not have 12 V at the taillight fuse.If this is the case the Fuse panel is issue.


This can only mean that there is a problem in the junction block. The power feed that feeds the 10 amp fuse also feeds the relay coil winding. When you turn the headlight switch to the on position for the taillights this also supplies power through the relay to the 10 amp taillight fuse. If you have no power to the fuse this means something in the fuse box or the relay itself is not supplying the current to the fuse. Double check your relay and make sure it is the correct one and is working. Make sure there's no corrosion in the fuse box itself.If it all checked ok,then problem is Fuse panel itself.

To confirm this try this way:----

If you pull the fuse are any of the 2 pins in the box getting power?

And Try same with relay also.

Pull the relay with the key on do any of the pins have power?

If you get power to one pin at relay side and get power to the fuse pins then its faulty fuse panel.

Replacing the Fuse panel will help.
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Before buying 2007 Toyota Camry SE model?

First of all i will say.If you are going for second hand or used car then some basic problem will be there.If the car is having no problem,then its very rare that car owner is selling it.In some cases you see that owner is going for new model car or if he is shifting from his place,then yes it can be other reason for selling the good condition car.
As per brand ,model and year Toyota Camry is very best car model.

BUT before buying this car
MAke sure there is no ticking from the engine on cold startup over night. There have been some issue with VVT controllers and such on bank one. These where mostly taken care of under warranty. If the car was driven where rust and corrosion is an issue check the calipers and holders for the pads on the rear brakes. Big trouble with the pads freezing in the holders and grinding up the rotors. That is about it. Just get service history on the car. Oil changes are everything on used car. If you can not find receipts or proof the car was maintained do not buy it. There are plenty of these out there that have been maintained well.

So this details will help.
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2004 Toyota Crown: OBD code P0156 and P0057?

Many a times this OBD error codes comes on due to faulty O2 sensor.But its always not the reason.
Also in this cases you will see that Dash warning lights like VSC or CEL or Traction control lights comes up on dash.

But As per the OBD codes.
The 0057 code indicates a problem in the heater circuit portion of the B2S2 or Bank 2 Sensor 2 Oxygen sensor. It is not likely an issue with the wiring or the ECU.
The 0156 means the output signal is not within specs. Check for 12 volts at the heater input to the sensor. If is good and the heater element has 12 volts coming out of it on the other wire then monitor it to go to 1 to 2 volts within 30 seconds of starting if it does not then the driver in the computer for the heater circuit may be bad. If the voltage is not coming out of the sensor and you have 12 volts to it. The sensor is bad.
And sensor needs to be replaced.

Some times these problems are intermittent.But in that case inspect the sensor.If its just got loose or got dirty.Then remove the sensor clean the sensor and reinsert and see if you get same error codes again.

The sensor may be just starting to fail and sometimes it is in range and other times it is not. It can also depend on the driving patterns.

This details will help.
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1992 Toyota Pickup: Setting Throttle Position Sensor?

How to Set TPS for Toyota Pickup.

There a basic procedure to do that.
The best way to set the TPS is to install it and keep the screws loose. When you install it make sure you get the tabs on the correct side of the sensor so that as you rotate the sensor until it contacts the tabs correctly. Then use a pin and back probe the Yellow wire with a white tracer. This is the second wire from the bottom. The connector should be plugged in and the key in the on position. This wire should have 12 volts before you plug it into the sensor. Do not touch the set/lock screws on the throttle body. make sure the throttle plate is completely closed and against the stop screw. Sometime you have to hold it there because of the throttle opener/dashpot. Then slowly rotate the TPS until the 12 volts on the Y/W wire drops to 0 volts. Then tighten the sensor. Now as you crack the throttle open the voltage should go from the 0 volts  to 12 volts. Recheck  the timing couple of times once the adjustment is done.


It is not necessary but is a good Idea in case some set it incorrectly when the TPS was not adjusted correctly. Install the jumper wire in E1 and TE1 in the Diag connector. Then check the timing.

This will help.

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2009 Toyota Corolla: Fuse Box Module Removal?

To do some wiring modifications or getting additional Accessory connected/added to the car system.The wiring passes/ runs under the fuse box.

The fuse box does not just unbolt and come out. It is modular. It has to be disassembled in sections to get to the wire harness under it.

See the diagram shown below and this images will help you to undo the fuse box module out.

The Fuse box Module removal part 2:---

The fuse box Module removal Image 3:---

The part 4 of Fuse box Module unit removal.

This diagrams will help.

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Toyota Celica: Cooling fan Shuts OFF and Idle Drops?

The 2002 Toyota Celica.The Engine running lean.There is no intake leak issue.The Error code states P0171.
All other possibilities tested OK.
In that case The injectors needs to be checked.Are the clean or dirty.If dirty then run a Lucas Injector cleaner and see if that is helping.

Also it can be clogged fuel filter causing the engine to run lean/ rough and idle drop.

The fuel filter can be an issue however it is in the fuel tank mounted inside the pump assembly. Normally when the filter gets restricted it will cause a loss of power on acceleration. The temp sensor is not likely the issue. If it is not operating normally it will set a code in the computer. The cooling fans use a different sensor and the idle control motor may just be gummed up. Try cleaning the throttle body and IAC Idle Air Control motor. This may help the idle and recover after the fan. Confirm the timing chain timing and then check the fuel pressure and volume. The only other option is to have the injectors professionally cleaned. It is worth a try before you replace them. PS Bosch O2 sensors do not work to well in the Toyota engine. DENSO is preferred.So if you are replacing the O2 sensor,then its advisable to use Denso Sensor Products.

This details will help.
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