Mitsubishi switched to a stronger wave spring on the Endeavors
Need to buy second hand Mitsubishi Endeavor vehicle, require suggestions from Garage Experts:----
Many old model Mitsubishi vehicles have noticed the problem with weaker wave springs.
The wave spring issue is a trait to the 40/50 series transmission, and Mitsubishi hasn't made a new part per se, only slight non-dated adjustments.... no actual "new part" that won't fail.
The wave spring breaking has been happening since 1998, but has progressively gotten less common as years go on. The last broken wave spring I ran into was a 2004 year vehicle.
Lots of Wave spring related complaints were noticed in rear 2004 for Mitsubishi vehicle.
But if you clearly notice then it seems that wave spring in all was not the culprit,
Ultimately it has as much to do with how the transmission is treated as it does with the construction of the wave spring at this point. If the transmission is getting slammed into gears day in day out, it will fatigue the spring and eventually cause it to fail by no fault of the spring itself.
As you have asked the details specially for Endeavor, i will shed some light in that way,there is a far more serious issue when dealing with Endeavor transmissions and that is loosening drive nuts inside the transmission.
As per our garage repair experience i will say, On 2004, 2005 and early 2006 Endeavors a drive nut inside the transmission was either improperly tightened or not notched properly to lock it in place, and over the course of 100,000 miles (give or take 15) this nut will begin backing off. It will be mostly unnoticeable until the nut begins impacting the planetary set, grinding away at it. Eventually the planet gears will have their axle shafts worn down, allowing the shim washers to slip out and debris float around the transmission, effectively destroying it (making it far too expensive to consider fixing due to the large number of parts that can not be cleaned and need to be replaced).
So before buying the Endeavor,just consider the year which your buying,the latest newer model are not facing or having any noticeable problem,all depends on driving habits of the driver.How well the vehicle is maintained and serviced.
As per our personal garage experience with these model Mitsubishi vehicles i suggest going for 2011 year vehicle.
With a 2011 there is no issue or worry at all..But for 2004 to 2007 the only big concern is the potential mileage and service history etc.
From 2009 on you should be fine in that respect as long as you stay at lower mileages. 2009/2010 made several improvements with regard to materials and assembly in some of the areas that were known complaint areas (squeaky/creaky doors, etc).Many older model vehicles have issue with doors making squeaking noise.
Very Important Note as per our Garage repair experience:-----
If you get into something over 60,000 miles, be prepared to have a timing belt replacement right off the bat that will add to your cost if there is no service history. Technically mid-year 2008 they switched to a 105k interval, however nothing changed between the engine design or belt material, etc, to justify the extra time length, so I typically still recommend it be done at 60k if possible, or at least not to run it to 105k.
Back on the transmission bit, if the mileage is over 60K you will want to see a service history showing transmission flushes with Mitsubishi fluid.... we really recommend it be flushed every 30k, but every 60k is pretty much bare minimum for not having any long term side effects. This transmission will 'eat' fluid.... it is not a transmission where you can just ignore the fluid for 100K miles or you will have side effects (slipping, torque shudder, etc).
So before getting into second hand vehicle,just confirm all its previous service history. What parts are still under warranty and what parts are near to its death.
If the vehicle is cleared from all its previous issues,then regularly maintaining the vehicle is a key to long run.
These details will help.
Thanks.
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